Airsoft Arizona
Off-Topic Forums => Real Firearms => Topic started by: Harley on May 04, 2004, 04:20:10 PM
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Sounds like you either had the wrong hammer in it or the wrong bolt carrier or both. The AR bolt carriers are designed to snag the hook on the top of the M16 hammer if someone tries to install and shoot the gun with it.
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Its all bushmaster, but who knows. Just to clarify, when I say the hammer stuck, I mean that it stuck cocked back and wouldnt fire. I took the lower off and nothing was in there jamming it, but it still would not release.
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Did you move your safty to fire postion or can it be moved at all right now, Is the safty binding up? Pull the fire controls apart and clean and inspect them for binding, Ars have a very simple fire control setup, What part of town are in? I could help with it in person its hard to fix over the PC
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Just take it back to the shop Joey and let them look at it.
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So, is the safety on?
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No, its in the fire position. I dont have it any more though. On top of the bushmaster warranty, the wholesale dealer that the shop got it from gave me a lifetime replacement warranty. I pick the new one up today.
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Did they say what was wrong with it Defect or anything
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The guys at the store figured it out. Another primer blew out and got stuck in the trigger assembly. SandB ammo SUCKS. What about the winchester 40 packs that can be gotten at walmart?
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I shoot S&B in my m4s all the time, maybe the head spacing was to tight?
all bushmaster come with a head spacing spec. I thought?
o well give this one a try. how many rds before you jammed the first AR?
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Blow primers are a sign of dangerous pressures, correct? Check the primers on rounds that you've previously fired or shoot at least a few more S&B's. Check to see if the primer is flattened out (matches the same height as case bottom). If it's not nice and round looking around the edges, you MAY have some hot loads.
Another cause would be bad head spacing. If the head spacing is off, the bullet can be seated into the lands of the rifling, which can possibly increase chamber pressures to unsafe levels.
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The performance of your guns is directly proportional to the quality of magazines and ammo that you use. If you want top performance all the time, use factory magazines and high-quality ammo.
I've already suggested the ammo to use in this thread, as have a few others. I've never used S&B and never would. I have only used WWB for "plinking".
Read: http://www.olyarms.com/ammowarning.html (http://www.olyarms.com/ammowarning.html)
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Joey make sure you're not shooting 5.56 ammo in a barrel chamber for .223. Look on top of your barrel at the front just before the muzzle. It will be stamped into the steel what it's chambered for. 5.56 ammo is hotter than .223 ammo and that could be your problem. I've blown primers out doing this very thing. I've also never had a problem with S&B ammo in any of my guns.
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It says 556 nato on my barrel. Does this mean I should not shoot .223 ammo?
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You're OK with .223 ammo. If the barrel was marked .223 then you would need to stay away from military 5.56 ammo.
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Cool. Im going to give the winchester a try for about 120 rounds and see what happens. Ill let you guys know. Thanks again for the help, Im just getting started with real guns here and dont know too much.
Paco, the thirty rounder I have is not Bushmaster, should I replace it with a bushmaster, or is it not a big enough issue to spend 35 or 40 bucks?
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For AR's, USGI mags are essentially the functional equivalent of "factory" mags.
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Just stay away from the really GOOD mag deals for $5 or $10 unless they're used GI mags. Don't buy the cheap mags that "Cheaper Than Dirt" sells, that's just asking for a headache. When the AWB sunsets in September you should be able to buy new GI mags for $5 to $10 each.
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For what it's worth, S&B ammo is almost exclusively used by most European factories for testing of firearms before shipping them out. I've used it for 15 years now without any fuss.
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Ive heard lots of people speak highly of it. Ive had two bad jams now from blown out primers. Is it possible that I just got part of a bad lot, or maybe my gun is just picky?
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Read: http://www.olyarms.com/ammowarning.html (http://www.olyarms.com/ammowarning.html)
Then follow the good advice given.
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I got 2 30 round M16 magazines from a yard sale with a bunch of other military stuff. The springs are pretty stiff, and its hard to push it down. They are made by Adventure Line Mfg. CO., INC.
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Do they have green followers?
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If 'followers' are on the outside, no, it is all metal and grayish black.
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"followers" are the plastic or metal part that is on top of the spring inside the magazine - eg, what you push the first bullet onto when you load the mag.
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The follower is the piece inside that you pushed down on when you said they had stiff springs. Are they black or Green. The green ones are better and you can buy some to replace the black ones if they don't have them.
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Why are the green ones better? The one I have is black
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They are black.
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The green ones have two tabs on the ends that don't allow the follower to tip front or back. They are much more reliable.
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I went to site my scope in today, and the hammer on my bushmaster locked up. Luckily I have two warranties and I get a brand new one tommarow. Anyone had this happen, or is it just an isolated incident?