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Topics - Green Listerine

Pages: [1]
1
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB: M4 front assembly
« on: November 30, 2014, 12:30:07 PM »
Looking for some items:

-m4 front assembly. Not looking for anything specific, it just needs to fit a g&p. This would be perfect: http://www.evike.com/products/38106/

-polar star red nozzle

2
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / Guns n stuff (updated 3/5/15)
« on: November 08, 2014, 02:25:47 PM »
Selling some items. If interested text Jake 480 201 5253 I will meet half way if it's worth the drive. I'm usually free after 4pm, and all day Saturday. I do not do business on Sunday.

Please keep in mind, these are ASKING PRICES. Open to offers.

WTB/WTT:
-Offer me something.

Not pictured:
-echo1 p90 parts gun $40 All parts should be there, i just hate p90s
-CA cqb seal m4 upgraded.  $130
-CA sr25(?) upgraded with scope and bipod. SHS piston, swiss cheesed, corrected AoE. SHS aluminum ported piston head, stretched o-ring. minor airseal fixes. m120 spring. JG cylinder head, 70D sorbo. Brass spring guide, 6mm ball bearings. Stock CA torque motor.   $150
-WE mk16 AEG. 8mm copper bushings, polycarb piston and head, aluminum cylinder. Functional bolt catch and spring tension release.  $170
-G&P 8mm v2 Gearbox with G&P m120 speed motor. Shimmed, corrected AoE, sorbo, new FEP 16awg wires, deans to the rear. Great compression, runs very smoothly. Less than 1k rounds through it. Stock spring (350fps?) Perfect drop-in piece.  $offer$



1) TM sig553. Matrix3000 torque motor, deans. The rest is stock. Includes one low cap and sling. Consistent 285fps. Good range. $100



2) dboys ak74u RIS. 16:1 gears (maybe 13:1 actually?), stock cream piston, blue POM piston head with viton o-ring, metal cylinder head, 16awg FEP wires with 3034 mosfet, deans, wires soldered directly to motor tabs, I believe the motor is a TM speed motor? 6.03tbb. The rest is stock. RIS needs to have appropriate hardware to fit a little better.  One mag included. 325/23.  $120



3) dboys AK. JG Orange piston. Steel cylinder head. Deans. Flat hop. Rest should be stock. Metal RIS upper, real woodlower hand guard. No sights. Birdcage flash hider. Very sturdy gun.  One mag included. $120



5) TM g3. Knights armament nitro RIS. Classic army yellow piston lightened. Classic army yellow piston head with viton o-ring, steel spring guide, steel 18:1 gears, steel bushings, flat hop, small tamiya, JG blue motor.  Motor is on its last leg. One high cap, one low cap. 275fps. $100



6) cyma ak47. SHS 100:300 gears, shs piston and head, nozzle, CH. Inside is mostly SHS. Lonex Orange motor.  16awg fep wires with 3034 mosfet, deans. Lonex 70 bucking, flat hop. 6.03tbb. 320fps with .40g bb's. This gun was build, then put aside. Its nearly a brand new gun. $180



7) cyma ak74u all black. Polymer front grip. All stock, no work done. Shoots good. Tamiya. One mag. 375fps. $90




9) vfc sr16 externals $70



12) L96 body $10



3
Introduce Yourself! / Hello again
« on: November 06, 2014, 03:48:27 PM »
This is green, I've been gone for the past 2 years. I just got home 2 days ago, just wanted to say I'm back! Good to see you all.

4
General Airsoft Discussion / Saying goodbye
« on: November 17, 2012, 08:52:26 PM »
As some of you know, I'm a member of the church of Jesus Christ of Latter Day Saints (aka Mormon). I will be leaving to serve a mission on November 28th. I will be gone for two years, and I'm not sure if I will continue to play this sport when I get home. So as of right now, I am saying goodbye to this sport. I want to thank everyone for making it enjoyable here on AA, and maybe I will see you guys in 2 years  ;)

5
AEG's / The (soon to be) complete airsmith guide.
« on: October 29, 2012, 02:36:00 PM »
Enjoy. Tips, criticism, recommendations are gratefully accepted.


Special thanks to Birdman for trusting me with his M4 for install & example pictures.


I. Making basic MOSFET
II. Installing to v2 M4 gearbox
III. Installing to micro switch
IV. Installing to v3 AK gearbox
V. Installing to v6 Thompson gearbox
VI. Correcting AoE
VII. Radiusing shell window
VIII. Shimming
IX. Airseal mods In progress
    1. Cylinder head
    2. Piston head
    3. Air nozzle
X. Tappet trimming
XI. Barrel stabalization Coming soon
XII. Soldering deans
XIII. Preventing Premature Engagement In progress
    1. Short stroking
    2. Heavier spring
    3. Piston lightening & swiss cheesing

 


Part l. Making basic MOSFET

Here is a guide on how to build and install a basic MOSFET. There are a handful of other ways to make MOSFET's; however, this is perhaps the easiest way I've found.

To start you will need:
-IRLB3034PBF (IRLB is just a brand. PBF indicates Lead Free) There are others you can use, but these are arguably the best for most set ups.
-22k ohm resistor (1)
-100 ohm resistor (1)
-various sizes of heat shrink
-soldering iron and solder
-heat gun
-12-16awg wire
-22-24awg wire
-always handy to have a 3rd hand tool  ::)


Please note: you can ruin the MOSFET by heating it up too much, so take your time and let the solder and MOSFET cool down.

MOSFET & resistors





So lets begin.



I like to start out by insulating the resistors and mosfet with heat shrink  like so:





Next, take your 22k resistor and place it as pictured below (the one on top) and wrap the legs around the MOSFET, down to the Gate and Source leads (outside prongs). Solder them to the prongs. Then take your 100 ohm resistor and solder it to your Gate lead (left prong). It should look similair to this:





If this is your first time, take ~15 inches of your 22awg wire. You are better off having too much than too little. Solder the 22awg wire to the resitor like so (note that you will need to cut the extra) :




Insulate your work with heat shrink. Use your heat gun. Get some water, take a drink, and wait for it all to cool down.





Moving on. Take your negative 16awg wire and solder onto the Source (right prong). I usually solder this wire coming from the top, not the bottom as pictured. It will make sense later. This wire will go to your deans plug.




Put some heat shrink over it.




Bend the Source (right prong) upwards. If you soldered the wire from the top, there is no need to bend the Source…





This is what i meant by soldering from over the top. (the Gate is positive wire, it just has long heat shrink..)





Take more negative 16awg wire. Solder to the Drain (middle prong). Insulate your work. This wire will go to the negative motor tab, so its generally ~16inches depending on the gun.





Finally, take a larger piece of heat shrink and put it over everything. Heat it so its tight, and you're done!




Part ll. Installing to v2 M4 gearbox


Items needed:
-MOSFET
-solder
-banana connectors*

Here is a diagram of a front wired v2 gearbox. Note that the resistors arent shown for simplicities sake..





An actual picture. Sometimes soldering the two wires on one tab can be difficult. This isnt a very good example.. But you get the point.



Now installed:




Please note: when wiring  a mosfet to the front, it wont fit through the upper receiver. Well how do we fix this?..
With banana style connectors. I typically use the 2mm golden plugs. You can get them at most hobby stores.
Sometimes the plugs like to come undone. If this happens, either put heatshrink over the plugs or electrical tape.





Part III. Installing to micro switch

Items needed:
-soldering iron & solder
-heatshrink
-completed mosfet



This is for people who want to run a MOSFET to anything with a micro switch. I've searched online for a guide on this but never found one I liked, so here's how its done.


Here are 2 different style switches. You can use either, but the roller type needs to be cut and moved. The switch on the left is a standard 15A from an A&K m249.




First, solder your 22awg wire to the top prong. I find it easiest to put the wire through the hole in the prong, then soldering over. (Dont forget to put heatshrink over the wire)




Then, the 2 other positive wires go to the middle prong. Insulate with heatshrink.




This is how it should look altogether when wiring a MOSFET into a LMG with micro switch






Part IV. Installing to v3 AK gearbox


Items needed:
mosfet
soldering iron & solder
heat shrink

basically, a v3 AK wired to the back looks like so:
Note: Pretty sure you can swap the placement of the positive wires if its easier.

You dont need to open the gearbox to install a mosfet to an AK




The 2 main (large) positive wire are soldered to the top contact, and the smaller to the bottom. It helps to put heat shrink around them for added strength. (Yes, two wires are on the top, its just hard to see because of my professional picture taking skills…)



And on the motor tabs also:





Part V. Installing to v6 Thompson gearbox

Parts needed:
Soldering iron & solder
heatsrhink
MOSFET


Installing a mosfet to a thompson is quite simple because you dont need to open the gearbox at all.

Here is what your opened trigger assembly will look like.
Desolder the wires




Get this part out




The two main 16awg positive wires go here:




And the small positive on the other. Dont forget heat shrink




When you put it back into the assembly it'll look like this:




Sometimes it'll be difficult to close the top half back on because of all the wires. I dremel out this part of the upper portion of the assembly:




Now, the wires arent so pinched




And you are done:




For those who have trouble with the reassembly of the trigger, this may be helpful. I put this arm in last. It might take some time.. more difficult than V3's IMO.







Part VI. Correcting AoE


Items needed:
-sorbo or faucet washers
-cyanoacrylate (super glue)
-dremel

First of all, what is AoE? Angle of Engagement. The AoE between the sector gear and piston teeth actually.

See here, this is what most AEG's come like:




The pickup tooth on the sector gear is actually coming into contact with the 2nd tooth. So, take a dremel and shave the 2nd tooth off. (also notice how far the piston is coming out of the cylinder)

"On plastic pistons soldering iron works well to remove extra teeth  especially on pistons with reinforcement along the outside edges of the teeth," ThatGuy




Now, when you put it back together it'll look about like this. This is… better.. but not exactly what we want.




We want the sector gear's pickup tooth to engage at 12:00. We need something to take up a couple mm's, either on the piston head or cylinder head.
My preference is Sorbothane, or sorbo for short. Sorbo is a shock obsorbing material that prolongs your gearbox's lifetime.

You can also use faucet washers in place of sorbo.

First, remove the original padding and clean any residue. (not my picture)




Next, glue the sorbo pad on. Then, glue the original pad over the top. (this can be done with just glueing the sorbo over the original pad. However, this method will cause the sorbo to wear faster)

On the left is a stock cylinder head. On the right is one with sorbo.



Squeeze your cylinder head into your cylinder.




 Put it all back into the gearbox and check the AoE. Hopefully, it will be around 12:00 so we can have the best surface contact between the correct teeth.

This isnt the prettiest example out there. Most of the time, you will also need to trim the 3rd tooth, and maybe more.




Here is an example with spacers on the piston head:





Part VII. Radiusing shell window


This is a little trick that prevents the front end of your gearbox from cracking. Here is a normal gearbox. Some come already radiused




All you do is take a small bit dremel or rat tail file and round off the inside corners of the gearbox windows. And that's it




Part VIII. Shimming

So what is shimming? Basically, its applying little "shims" on the gear axles to allow the gears to mesh properly. Bad shimming can cause a hot motor, premature wear, screeching noises, and sometimes gearbox lockups

When you will need to reshim:
-new gears
-new motor
-new bushings/bearings
-new gearbox shell
-after 50k rounds its a good idea
-and most importantly: as soon as you buy a new gun. No gun comes shimmed perfectly out of the box. No, not even VFC's self-shimming gears.

You start by shimming the bevel gear to the pinion gear



I couldnt manage to get a picture of how the teeth are meshing here (you try to squeeze a fat iphone there…) but this is where you want to adjust your motor height. It's easy to see when you're actually doing it. This is where having a gun with a motor cage is great, unlike a v2.

Once you've adjusted the motor height, start placing shims one at a time underneath or above the bevel gear until it is meshing perfectly with the pinion. Close the gearbox and check how it looks and feels each time you add or remove a shim. Take your time, this is the most important step.



Once you shimmed the bevel-pinion, you can remove the motor cage.

Now you go to the bevel-spur. Pretty much the same process here. You usually want to keep the spur pretty low, but so that it still has clearance from the shell, yet it meshes with the bottom teeth from the bevel. This picture is not a good example but you get the point.



Keep placing shims, closing the gearbox, and spinning the gears to feel if they run smooth and silently. I feel like this is all that is necessary so I wont be finishing up with the spur-sector. When all is said and done, you should be able to spin the gears around 5-9 times. It should feel smooth, and sound pretty quiet.

Its always a good idea to assemble the gearbox with just the gears, then put the motor cage on, plug a battery in, and cycle the gears. If it sounds bad, it is bad. Its your guns way of saying, "Green, you suck at shimming." Or something along those lines..

Dont rush this. Too tight and it'll  cause problems. Too loose and it'll cause problems. So do it right the first time.


Part IX. Airseal mods


Items needed:
teflon tape
o-rings
greases/lubes
some source of heat (heat gun, lighter, etc)
glue


1. Cylinder head
2. Piston head
3. Air nozzle


Airsoft AEG's shoot a fixed volume of air. So… let make sure we get all of our air.

1. Lets start with the cylinder head. Most come stock with 1 weak o-ring. Some with two, which is what i will be using here. Cool.




Take that handy teflon tape and wrap it around about 3-5 times.




Now all i had available is this teflon grease… so put some teflon grease around the tape and shove it into your cylinder. You can use other sealant's for better results




2. Piston head.

If all you have are stock o-rings, here is a decent way to improve air seal.

Remove your piston head and place it around your cylinder. Apply (lightly) whatever lubricant you're planning on using around the o-ring, and heat it with a heat gun or lighter. Do not overheat. Move it around and let it cool.




Another thing you can do is simply buy better o-rings. I personally prefer viton O-rings, as they have 2 "lips" for better seal. Or you can buy your traditional #14 o-rings.




3. Air nozzle

Most air nozzles come without an internal o-ring shown below:



You can place a small o-ring at the bottom of the air nozzle in its place however. After you glue it on so it doesnt come off, be sure that the nozzle can still slide on the cylinder head tube without getting caught or having excessive drag.


Part X. Tappet trimming

Items needed:
Tappet plate
dremel or file


This could be in the airseal section but whatever. Why would you do this? Its easier to explain with pictures, so keep reading.

Normal tappet plate on left, trimmed on the right.




All you do is take a dremel or file and start taking material off the face of the tappet plate.

See now that the tappet plate face is trimmed, it allows the air nozzle to petrude further. This makes the nozzle go "deeper" into the hop up chamber, improving the air seal.



Part XI. Barrel stabalization

Coming soon

Part XII. Soldering deans

Items needed:
Soldering iron & solder
deans
wire strippers


Never cut both wires at the same time.


Cut your wire and apply some solder onto the wire.



Also to the deans.



Dont forget heat shrink. Solder the wire to the plug, and insulate with heat shrink.

…And repeat with the other wire




XIII. Preventing Premature Engagement

1. Short stroking
2. Heavier spring
3. Piston lightening & swiss cheesing

Oh noes, PE is here! PE is the result of the sector gear engaging the piston before the piston has completely cycled. This happens typically when you have a weak spring, speed gears & strong motor, and a heavy piston assembly.

1. Short stroking

Items needed:
sector gear
dremel

This is how to short stroke the gears.

Simply take your sector gear and dremel:




and cut off however many release teeth as you want. This example is SS-1, meaning short stroked 1 tooth.



But what does this even do? A) it lowers the fps by about 12-15 per tooth. and B) allows the piston more time to cycle by releasing it sooner.

This is almost always done with this:

2. Heavier spring

Say you have 13:1 gears, neo motor, heavy piston, m90 spring. You're asking for trouble with that spring, but you really want that 300 fps so you can play at vanguard.

So add a m110 spring or so, and SS as many teeth until your desired fps. Simple.

3. Swiss cheesing

6
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB items
« on: April 30, 2012, 05:50:51 PM »
text 480 two zero one 5253 if you have any of these

-MC pants 29/32
-MC shirt M/L
-MC hat
-.25-.40g bb's
-v3 motor cage (AK)  need ASAP
-torque motors (short) need ASAP
-Ak beta project mags
-PEQ box black
-13:1 gears
-torque gears




7
Troubleshooting / MOSFET
« on: April 09, 2012, 06:29:48 PM »
Couldnt decide where to put this thread, so I put it under TroubleShooting?..

So.. i will probably be making basic mosfets for me and some buddies, maybe even offering to sell them to you guys here on AA if i am confident after heavy testing on them. But until then, I have some questions.

Question 1) I have both 22k-Ohm and 33k-Ohm resistors. Which should I use? I couldnt get 30k at Radio Shack, which is what i planned on using. Dont worry, im using 100-Ohm for the other resistor.

Question 2) IRF510 mosfets are all that they had, so thats what i got.. How well will the IRF510 mosfet work? . And I was going to use the IRLB3034PBF Mosfet (which Im pretty sure EF uses in his mosfets, Age, and others), but they didnt have them, or even the 1404's. I am still wanting to buy those 3034's.

Question 3) Which guage wire should I run? For the main wire I wanted to use 14 or 16awg, and maybe 24awg for the gate. Yes? no?

Thanks for any responses

8
Troubleshooting / DSG issues
« on: March 31, 2012, 03:20:16 PM »
Having some problems with my current build..
First, what im running:

-Echo 1 Platinum m4 as the base gun (VFC, for those who havent a clue…)
-Stock parts: shell, bushings, trigger contacts/assembly, 16awg wires, air nozzle, alu piston head (heated&streched #14 O-ring), cut-off lever(shaved down), ARL, and the little springs.
-SHS modded tappet (11mm)
-SHS 15 piston (corrected AoE)
-Riot DSG (8 tooth version)
-Riot spacers (only using 6 of the 8..)
-Riot M110 eqv. spring
-JG GE 18:1 bevel and spur
-JG Blue motor
-Random aluminum cylinder head
-Cylinder w/ 2 windows


Issues:
1) semi auto doesnt work. Still shoots auto when placed on semi (not really a big concern)
2) BB is shot (projected) ONLY on every other shot, as if it takes 1 full revolution of the sector gear to fire 1 bb, instead of .5 of a revolution like the DSG should.


Any help would be appreciated *coughslinkyorspazzcough* thanks

9
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB stock, HT motor, stuff
« on: December 23, 2011, 11:04:10 PM »
-Looking for m4/m16 fixed stock. Preferably black. Can be the shorter versions. Needs the screw and spacer.

-V2 wire harness, front or back wired

-High Torque motor

-G36 hop up assembly


Text me at 480 201 5253, thanks

10
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / Green's thread. Guns, MOSFET's, Tech work
« on: December 20, 2011, 12:56:03 PM »
Please read:
-Will meet at vanguard or gearbox. Im in Mesa.
-Parent/Guardian must be present if you are under 18 and purchasing a gun.
-Number is 480 two zero one 5253 and email is jkejames22@gmail.com, text is best for me


If you want more pictures, ask.

Prices are OBO.
 


GUNS


A&K mk43. Replaced entire electrical harness.. Added my MOSFET, 16awg and 22awg FEP wires, lonex gold motor connectors, deans. SHS 15 steel piston, aluminum ported piston head with 2 o-rings, Prommy cylinder head, 6.03 tbb, madbull red bucking, Corrected AoE with sorbo, shimmed, greased, airseal mods done.
Box mag runs independently using 9V battery, with on/off toggle switch. A lot of time spent working on this guy.
Comes with 1 box mag.
UPDATE: R-hopped. Range and accuracy is much greater now; however, must use at least .28's   $320






A&K m249 PARA. Core 13:1 gears, Core 15 steel teeth piston fixed rack, Core nylon piston head with viton o-ring and removed bearings, Core o-ringed air nozzle epoxied to a trimmed tappet plate, VFC POM cylinder head with 70D sorbo for AoE and PTFE tape for improved air seal, new 20A micro switch tweaked arm to work with trigger mechanism, 14.8v lipo rated MOSFET with 16awg FEP wiring, soldered directly to motor tabs and micro switch blades, deans, stabilized CA blue 6.04 tbb, R-hopped set for .28's, with all basic DIY mods done.    $320
Comes with 1 box mag.





Tokyo Marui MC51. Nitro Vo rail sleeve & Knights Armament mc51 ris (hard to find).. Classic army piston swiss cheesed, classic army piston head with viton o-ring, random steel gears, JG Blue motor, 8mm steel bearings, metal spring guide, irregular m110, soft blue bucking, brass 6.05 crowned barrel. AoE corrected with 70D sorbo, trimmed tappet plate epoxied to nozzle, air seal mods, o-ring in various places to impove seal, basic DIY. $offer
Comes with (1) 500 high, (1) 20 low, and some original parts.








Beta Project Magpul AK. Fixed some minor problems. Was going to be a primary gun but decided not to... Bravo hardened 9 steel tooth piston, Bravo aluminum piston head, brass double o-ringed cylinder head. Sorbo, airseal, deans. Madbull 6.03tbb, tokyo marui hop up unit, nub, and bucking. $270
Comes with 1 beta project mid








Tokyo Marui AUG military. Viton O-ring, airseal mods, corrected AoE, new hop up unit, bucking, and nub. $160
Comes with 1 high cap, 4 mids. Classic Army and Tokyo Marui mags, and original hop up
UPDATE: Painted






KWA KP45. Shoots great, never any issues, just the mag slowly leaks. Also missing front sights. $80
Comes with 1 mag






VFC Krinkov AKs74u. Best feeling airsoft AK i've felt.  Missing some hardware for rid, still pretty solid. Prommy 250 6.03tbb, replaced bucking, h-nub. SHS 13:1 gears, Blue 9-port piston head, JBU ported cylinder, JBU aluminum cylinder head with some padding, 16 AWG FEP wires all the way through, soldered directly to motor tabs, deans, and MOSFET. The rest is stock VFC. Pretty sure these aren't being sold anymore. $260
Comes with 1 high or 1 mid.








Firepower m4. Mostly plastic. Surprisingly had a decent metal gearbox, similair to JG. XYT gears and all… tuned and running smoothly. Shoots great. Front triangle sight is off-center. $30









LOL… price tag says $59.99…. runs off 6 AA batteries. $10





BONEYARD/PARTS GUNS



KJW m700 takedown. Got in trade, never shot it since mag is leaky. No idea if it can be fixed, im not a gas guy. Was told it had some sort of power upgrade to the bolt. $45









Echo1 P90: 6.03 tbb. deans. Rubber stock extension.
Issues: No motor, gears, piston, piston head, or air nozzle. When put together, semi didnt work (likely the common cut-off lever problem)
Asking $40






Cybergun licensed M1A1 thompson: purchased broken to fix and resell. Once fixed, price will likely double.
Issues: motor wont turn
Asking $40







PARTS/EXTERNALS

 



Random parts. Moslty m4 stuff. Some G36 and AK. If you see something you like, let me know












Scope risers/mounts $10 each









Front end kit. Silver outer barrel is divided into 4 pieces. Free float rails. Bipod. WILL PART OUT Want to trade for other front end





Noveske upper, outer barrel, and flip up sight. Dust cover stays open. Cant get the fastener thingy off, or whatever you want to call it… no promises on this piece.$15





-Madbull ACE. No hardware (I believe you can use regular buffer tube screw and nut) $offer$
-G36k front end $20
-Noveske lower w/ knights trigger guard $50





Harris Bipod $15
Bushnell 3-9x40 scope $offer$
PBS4 silencer $35





$offer or trade$
-Tokyo Marui g36 low cap
-Also have a bunch of Ak mags..







Ak front end by CYMA. Good weight to it. Including hop up unit and barrel. Like new $30








$10 Stocks for M4's






$10Buffer tubes…






$10-$20 M4 handguards $5-$15





NC star Red/Green dot. Have two of these, one needs batteries. $10





GEAR


Not pictured: German flecktarn set, Digital Woodland set, ACU set.


$10 Type 89 Ak chest rig.






ACU vest $20






INTERNALS/UPGRADES:




I have a bunch of stock internals so let me know if you need a small part..

Gearboxes. JG, ICS split, AGM, etc..





$offer$

E1 HS motor; mint
Tokyo Marui eg1000;mint
(1) CA HT motors; new and little wear
Bunch of random stock motors






These are my MOSFET's. Rated to handle 14.8v lipo's. Using 16awg FEP and 22awg FEP wires. $20




WANTED

-Fusion Engine V2, nozzles, tanks, etc.
-Torque short motor
-Any nice gun that uses m4 mags
-Madbull ACE SOPMOD stock
-Magpul PRS stock
-Magpul Motor grip
-R-hop, ER-hop, or anything related.
-torque gears



TECH WORK:

I do tech work, and have for quite a while now. Will not work on m14's or gbb's, as I have not done enough work on them to publicly work on them.

Small stuff, such as installing deans, barrels, buckings, pistons, cylinders, etc.. are generally free or very cheap. 

1) Basic maintenance $15 : reshim, grease, correct aoe with Sorbo, clean trigger contacts, clean motor brushes, clean inner barrel, examine any damage internally or externally. If you give me a DSG to shim, price doubles.
This should take no longer then 1.5 hours.

2) Advanced maintenance $40 : basic maintenance^, polish gear faces, polish piston slides, swiss cheese piston, radius gearbox window, deans, change PH O-ring, short stroke (if asked), epoxy bushings (if asked), air seal mods, barrel stabilization if needed, shimmed hop up arm if needed.
This can be a bit time consuming, up to 5 hours depending on the gun.

3) No-resistance treatment $35 : this is purely to ensure a Lipo-Ready gun. I make AND install MOSFET, rewire using only 16awg and 22awg FEP wires, deans, gold motor connectors if using v2, gold bullet connectors if v2 is wired to front, and clean contacts.

4) A&K Mk43 Electrical solution $50: tired of the proclaimed "mosfet" that A&K put in their M60's? Tired of running both the gun and mag off the SAME battery? Well, let me help you out.
I will replace the entire electrical mess they have going on inside those things, as well as making the gun and mag run INDEPENDENTLY.  I can also drop in a MOSFET, neatly tucked away out of sight. Ask for details

If you give me a gearbox already separated from gun, price will drop.
If you drive to me and pick up, price will drop.
If you combine 1-4 in any way, price will drop.


I will pay for/replace any damage done by me.



Well thats about it at the moment. Thanks for looking! Have a nice day.

11
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / WTT Echo1 C.P.W
« on: November 22, 2011, 04:13:03 PM »
I have an echo1 cpw that literally sits and gathers dust. Fairly new with very little use.

Let a friend borrow the original mag, and never got it back... Just a heads up. (Nothing some cash cant fix)
However, I do have an orange CYMA mag from another AK.

Anyways, mainly looking to TRADE. Not looking for anything specific (No AK's... not a fan of AK's anymore) so let me know what you have!

Text Jake at (480) 201 5253 if interested/for pictures

Thanks for your time! Happy holidays :)

12
Introduce Yourself! / Hey everyone
« on: October 08, 2011, 03:54:27 PM »
New to AA. Well, i've just never made an account... Soo i finally decided to make one!
Been airsofting for 7 years, so i wouldnt say im a newbie. Anyways, just wanted to let
you guys know! :D

13
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / WTS/WTT some guns (Update)
« on: October 08, 2011, 03:46:13 PM »
Selling a few guns I never use:

-Echo 1 C.P.W Ak47
-Classic Army G36k---GONE
-Tokyo Marui M1A1 Thompson (cosmetic issue)
-SRC M4 Metal RIS full stock---GONE

Text me for pictures (Please, no emails)

Make me an offer! I am open to TRADES, even if it is only equipment.

Located in Mesa, can meet at Vanguard.

(480) two zero one 5253

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