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Topics - Uchiha Itachi

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1
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB: G36 OB Assembly
« on: February 13, 2014, 08:14:04 PM »
I'm looking for a G36 OB assembly(JG/CA) or a broken one with a perfect IB assembly. I really just want the actual assembly and not the wires/hopup/IB.

Will pay cash.

http://www.evike.com/products/31521/

2
Other items for sale... / WTS: Hauppage vdeo recorder
« on: June 16, 2013, 08:12:05 PM »
I have a Hauppauge video recorder and wires. I believe it's the V2 and will come with the cables for Xbox and Ps3. It will also come with the DVD, but the website also has it.

I got this for a project, but it fell through and never really got used. It just sits now. This is an example of it recording Xbox with an HDMI;

http://youtu.be/ZQF3j5jW0d4
http://youtu.be/AxrivSULgLs

$100

3
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / We18c, Trishot Shotty
« on: March 05, 2013, 06:37:20 PM »
2 guns..both used a tiny bit.

1) We18c. Latest version with a Gen. 3 lower(non-interchangable grips). Nothing is wrong with it and it has no issues what so ever. Mag has NO leaks. $60

2) Trishot Shotgun. Not sure what brand, but I used it at two games. Comes with a shell as soon as I find it. No issues, no cracks, no damage. $40.

18+ NO SHIPPING AND NO TRADES

4
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB: Small TV
« on: February 23, 2013, 05:58:37 PM »
Looking for another small 18.5in(screen) or 19in flat screen with stand. Screen must be nearly free of marks, work perfectly, and have a PC-IN(vga) port.

Willing to trade a WE 18c(used once) plus cash if more expensive.  May sell the pistol if you just want that. 

5
Airsoft Items WANTED / WTB: Broken Guns
« on: January 11, 2013, 11:14:26 PM »
Looking for non-working AEGs. Don't care if the guns are torn apart.

And WE pistols except Hicapas.

6
Reviews / KWA M93r Ns2
« on: July 03, 2012, 02:33:21 PM »
V. 1

KWA M93r II Ns2



Ordering:

This gun was purchased on AirsoftGI for $170 with a 10% of coupon code. This is one of the more expensive GBB pistols that KWA offers and the second non-PTP pistol in this price range. This means that it will be lacking many of the PTP qualities that are associated with KWAs. The gun came in the familiar 13inx13in box with brown paper pushing the gun box to the bottom. Both the KWA and shipping boxes came undamaged and sealed.

Introduction:

The KWA M93r II Ns2 is one of the only variant of the M93rs on the market. There is the TM AEP version, old KSC, current KSC, and one TSD AEP version. There was also a limited edition Christmas packaged that contained 2 magazines and a removable stock. The real gun was developed using the M9 as a base. The Italians added a 3 round burst feature and several small addition to the gun to make it usable in this configuration. The word "Raffica" literally means "Burst" which would make this the M93 "Burst". These additions to the gun are mostly centered around the use of the 3 round burst mode and not the gun in general.

Opening the Box:

Inside the box you will find the standard KWA packaging of: GBB, oil bottle, BBs, hop up tool, manual, warranty paperwork and magazine. The box uses the normal KWA gray Styrofoam that is quite stiff to prevent the gun from moving in transport. When you open the box, you will find the normal KWA style graphics on most of their guns. You will see the bright white KWA M93r Cal. 6.00mm and selector options. The Made in Taiwan and serial number are not whited out or highlighted. You will also notice the selector switch's options cross the slide/receiver split. The single fire is on the slide and the 3 round on the gun. Before you ask, this gun has no auto select fire feature nor does the manual even mention it. So, I will not be covering it at all as it isn't a normal operation of the gun. The rest of the differences will be covered later. However, it does possess the same KWA color black of the rest of their guns.

Specs:

These are from kwausa.com:


    Overall Length = 25.3 cm [9.96"]
    Overall Height = 17.5 cm [6.89"]
    Inner Barrel Length = 125 mm
    Inner Barrel Diameter = 6.05 mm
    Weight = 1.06 kg [2.34 lbs]
    Caliber = 6 mm
    Magazine Capacity = 32 [48] rounds
    Velocity = 104-107 MPS [340-350 FPS]
    Energy Output with 0.20g BB = 1.07 Joules
    Gas System = NS2

Of course, by gas they mean green gas since propane will void the warranty.

Note* The website does mention the gun's auto feature. However, since the gun itself doesn't have a marking for it nor does the manual state so; I'd prefer to not use it.


Externals/Appearance:

This is where many of the differences in the gun lies vs. the rest of their guns. Starting from the top, the slide is made from metal with integrated sights. The sights are not removable or adjustable in anyway. The front sight is a standard fin type sight with a bright white dot. The rear sight is a white vertical line with two flat black posts on either side. The sights are ok, but nothing special and not what I'm use to. They are easy enough to line up and contrast makes it easier to spot the mis-aim. It's very similar to the real M9 rear half circle sight. So, if you've used this type of sight before; it shouldn't be a problem.









You will also notice the open slide on the top. The slide is cut away and exposes the outer barrel assembly. The outer barrel assembly is plastic. The outer barrel extends an inch and a half from the slide. The outer barrel is ported and non-threaded, so no attachments can go on this barrel.





As stated before, the gun has few trademarks. You will only find the KWA M93r Cal. 6.00mm and the white semi dot on the slide.





The racking grips are a bit strange. They follow the standard style found on other guns with the slightly angled vertical lines and grooves. However, the angle of the slide is very sharp and awkward to rack with the thumb and index finger. I find myself palm racking it instead as it's easier to grip given there is a horizontal groove on the left side for my fingertips to fall into. The spring provides very low tension, so either way would work fine depending on your preference.





Now the lower receiver is indeed plastic. I'm sure that is news a lot of you did not want to hear about this gun. The gun uses different types of metal, and it's a bit difficult to tell the difference between the plastic parts and metal. Sometimes one the wear on them shows what's underneath the paint.



The only universal part on this gun is the forward angled grip. The grip is made of metal as is the mounting assembly. The grip moves between up and down modes fairly easily and doesn't move. There is no lock on the forward grip as it relies solely on the piston. This could be a potential problem area in the future with extended use. The front and back hand grips are vertical lines and etched into the frame. These can not be changed or modified. They do their job in a decent manner since it's an airsoft gun and the recoil is minor. The sides of the hand grips are diamond patterned and plastic. They work fairly well, and the grips make the handle a bit fatter than a normal M9.



On the left side of the gun you will find; slide release, selector switch, safety, slide lock, and magazine release. The slide release locks from the inside of the slide and not the outside. This can be see by pulling back the slide and looking into the chamber. You'll see a grayish black part in the middle of the black slide. It's fairly easy to spot. There is wear on the corner that shows a bit of metal.




Now, if you look at the position of the part you will see a problem. The selector switch blocks your thumb from hitting the slide release. You will either have to use your left thumb, rotate your right hand to reach or rotate the gun slightly. I don't have small hands either.


The selector switch has two different types of metal on it. The pin that runs through it appears to be of higher quality. It's held in by a tiny allen screw on the top of it. The top option is semi and the second option is 3 round burst. There are actually 4 clicks in total; semi, click, click, 3 round burst. The auto function lies in the extra clicks between the modes.




The safety is found behind the selector switch and is underneath is as well. They are stacked onto of each other. The safety only has two modes being safe and fire. Selector on the white means it's ready to fire, and the selector on the red means it's engaged. Basically, if you see red the safety is off and if you see white it's on. What's important to note here is that the safety will not engage unless the hammer is back. It will still fire if you click it to safe than cock the hammer.




The slide lock, also, is of the odd looking metal.




The magazine release is also of the same metal material. It is a simple push button design. It's not that difficult for your thumb to reach and has a lower tension level. It's located just far enough way that accidental releases will be rare by your right thumb.





The hammer also appears to be metal and only has 2 stages; cocked and uncocked.




You will also find a stock attachment point on the bottom of the hand grip and bottom. There is no lanyard loop, but the rear stock mount could possible be used for that. It is attached to a metal guide plate that runs up the mag well.




The right side of the gun has nothing but the slide release button and a different grip. The slide lock release button is metal, and the grip has a different top. The top of the grip pins your trigger finger between the ridge and middle finger while forcing it towards the trigger. This is, more than likely, designed to control recoil.





Internals

To take the gun apart, you push the pin on the right side and rotated the release(on the left side) clockwise. It'll stop at 6 o'clock so don't over turn it. You then pull the slide off by pushing it forward. Be care here as the recoil spring is very long the recoil guide isn't really locked into it. It may very well fly off when you take it apart. It's only two pieces unlike the other guns I've reviewed.






You will also notice the ejection port is different. It's spring loaded, and I am unsure of its use. The manual simply states it's a locking block and doesn't appear to do anything but lock the barrel in place. The locking block is metal.



The internal do look very different. This this is a burst, and technically automatic, GBB pistol; it will not have the standard design. However, the internals are all metal and hidden in the rear slide guide. 






Even though the lower receiver is plastic, the slide guides are metal as is the top of the loading area. You can see the color difference between metal and plastic.



Magazine:

The magazine will hold 32 rounds and is extended. It has a higher lock on it, which is probably due to needing a stronger spring to fire in the burst mode. I do believe the KWA M9 PTP mags will work as well in this.








Use:

On semi auto from 20-21ft away in a closed garage with .25 TSDs, I was able to get 52 rounds before the magazine died. That's about 1 3/4th magazine per charge of green gas. I fired the rounds one after another, so that will probably account for the drop in number of rounds per charge. The magazine was fairly cold after finishing the first run through.



On burst mode I was able to get 50rds before the magazine ran into issues doing the same firing method as before.



http://youtu.be/P8xpemFwh0o

I know about the oil on the gun. It came that way and I'm still cleaning it out. I don't know where all this oil came from.

7
Reviews / KWA Mk23 Ns2
« on: June 28, 2012, 02:24:43 PM »
V. 1

KWA Mk.23 Ns2




Ordering:

This gun I purchased from Arizona Paintball Depot. I don't remember the exact price, but it was similar to AirsoftGI's and Evike's price of $182.95. This is one of the most expensive, if not the most expensive, GBB KWA produces. The nearest priced GBBs are the special ones like the M9 Tactical and M93r at around $170. Since this was bought locally there was no wait time or shipping.

Introduction to the gun:

The KWA Mk.23 Ns2 is one of the few copies of the HK Mk.23 available with those being; NBB TM, older KSC, KSC, and Y&P. The new KSC and KWA versions are similar, but both contain small differences for each market. The real gun is made by the German company Heckler and Koch(pronounced Coke) in the 1990s for US Special Forces in .45 ACP caliber(HK). The single most important thing to note is the size of the gun; it's massive. Compared to most handguns, it has a larger frame and weight due to the intended use of the gun. If you have small hands then this gun may pose problems. The gun does have several additional features such as a; working decocker, safety, adjustable rear sight, threaded barrel, and textured grip.

http://www.hk-usa.com/civilian_products/mark23_general.asp

Opening the box:

Inside the box you will find; GBB, silicon oil, manual, magazine, BBs, and the warranty card. Basically, the standard KWA GBB package with a different gun in it. The box is the standard KWA gray Styrofoam that keeps the materials securely in place in transit. When you open the box the first thing you will notice are the bright white trademarks stating HK MK23 USSOCOM Cal. .45 and the gun's serial number. You will also find a subdued HK .45 trademark on the grip. And of course, you will notice the massive size of the gun in the box.





Specs:

These are taken from kwausa.com:


    Overall Length = 25 cm [9.84"]
    Overall Height = 15 cm [5.91"]
    Inner Barrel Length = 130 mm
    Inner Barrel Diameter = 6.05 mm
    Weight = 1.16 kg [2.56 lbs]
    Barrel Thread = 16 mm CW
    Caliber = 6 mm
    Magazine Capacity = 25 rounds
    Velocity = 110-116 MPS [360-380 FPS]
    Energy Output with 0.20g BB = 1.2 Joules
    Gas System = NS2

By gas they mean green gas. KWA does not approve of propane being substituted as green gas in their guns.


Externals/Appearance

When you first look at the gun you will notice all the trademarks. You will find the HK MK23 USSOCOM Cal. .45 and serial number on the left side of the slide. On the right side of the slide you will find the KWA warning and a Licensed Trademark of Heckler and Koch GmbH. In addition to those, you will find that the ejection port is trademarked with HK .45 auto and a series of numbers. The slide is made of metal and painted KWA black. The sights are not integrated into the slide and can be removed. The rear sight is adjustable and held in place by a single flat head screw. It does get loose, but a simple re-tightening works fine for me.  The rear of the sight is a simple two white dot on both sides of a cut out square. The front sight appears to be held in place simply by being pinched in.










The slide rack grooves are standard style. They are simple slightly angled lines with rectangular grooves in between. If you've used NATO style guns before, this will feel no different than those when racking the slide. Here is also the rear of a M226 to compare the similarity.




When racking the slide the spring guide pin remains hidden in the lower body. It is metal with a metal o-ring cap near the end of it. You will also find a green O ring on the plastic outer barrel. On the barrel it self there are threads for the USSOCOM Mk.23 mock silencer. The gun does not come with one nor can other mock silencers fit due to it being 16mm CW. This is not the standard threading found on other handgun and rifles of 14mm CCW.






The lower receiver is black polymer. The uniform parts of the lower receiver are the; trademarks, safety, magazine release, and the hand grip texture. You will find two matching subdued HK .45 trademarks on the bottom right of both sides of the grip. The safety is located just behind the decocker on the left side, and in the same position on the right. The most important thing to note here is the fact the safety will not engage unless the gun is armed. If you attempted to safety the gun before the gun is cocked, the safety will not engage and the gun will still fire. You must arm the gun then flip the safety into safe position. The trigger will move but not go all the way back to fire. This would be covering the red button and not the white.






The magazine release is on both sides. It is located on the bottom of the trigger guard next to the grip. To release a magazine one must simply push the lever down. Accidentally releasing the magazine is no simple matter and shouldn't pose a problem at all. The gun is simply so big your fingers are not near the release and your middle finger should be blocking it.




The grip is completely textured all the way around. The front and back set in rectangular patterns with the insides have triangular pyramid points. The sides have a more of a sandpaper feel and go all the way up to the base of the lower's top. The gun does not move much in your hand due to this design and is very solid when gripping it.




The differences are the decocker and slide release. The decocker is only found on the left side of the gun and works fine. When the gun is armed, one simple pushes the lever down until it clicks and the hammer returns to the up position. However, the gun is a double action and precaution should always be used. I've tried to fire it after decocking it to no avail. I had to rack it in order for it to fire. I always side with caution instead of guessing. The slide release is also on the left side and appears to be aluminum. The slide release is both automatic and magazine activated. There is a spring on the inside that pushes the release up into the slide. It looks like a pin style and fits into an + style whole. You must put it in correctly or it won't have tension to automatically go up. It will be manual use/magazine only until corrected. When the mag is empty, it will be magazine guided up and lock back.





You will also find a lanyard loop on the back of the gun.



However, mine doesn't work as should anymore. I have owned this gun for awhile and haven't really used it all that much so it doesn't have many rounds through it. The slide release has been worn down by the slide. It seems that the slide has dug into the release and created a notch. This notch prevents the slide release from engaging the slide when the magazine is empty or manually. I have sharpened mine to a point it will work manually, but does not work when done in use. It may work again if sharped enough, but I'd rather not risk losing the manual mode right now. I have asked APD about it, and they were willing to call to see if they could get the part for me. You can already see it digging a new notch in the release lever.   




The trigger is standard style.



Another important thing to know is the front of the lower receiver has no rails. It has a locking area for the LAM unit that is often attached to this gun. This is also a cut own notch with serial numbers on silver metal.  The hammer is also only 2 stage in the cocked or decocked mode





Internals.

To break the gun down you must first match the rectangular notch to the circle on the slide release lever. You then push the lever out of the gun and pull it out. Be VERY careful when dealing with the spring. It is only tension held and doesn't look strong enough to take much punishment before breaking.






To remove the spring guide there is a little clamp that must be removed first. This keeps the spring guide from moving around and getting stuck inside the slide. You then simply push it towards the front of the slide and lift up. Make sure you clear it from the pin that it is attached to on the hopup/outer barrel assembly. Which is plastic and usual of KWAs. 









Note* You will have some issues putting it back in. I found it easier to push the pin through the receiver than back onto the hopup/outer barrel assembly. Pay attention to the way you remove it as well. The solid pin side goes to the hopup/outer barrel assembly and the loose to the slide. Do not get these backwards.

Front


Back



The lower looks a bit different than normal. It's all pretty well hidden inside the lower. For a gun that's nearly a year old, the internals of the lower look pretty good. It looks like there is little wear on the internals.




 


Magazine:

The Magazine will hold 26 rounds. It has a few trademarks on the sides and base plate. It's fairly large compared to other magazines.








Use:

I have used this gun through the year. It shoots very hard and is quite loud when compared to other GBBs. I have never had this gun jam or misfire on me. Compared to other GBBs, the kick on this gun is stronger and you can tell the is moving with some force. Simply firing the gun is half the fun of using it on the field. The FPS is high enough that is makes it field usable. It will still have pistol range limitation, but will give you a tiny bit more given the longer barrel and higher FPS. The gun's size, though, may pose problems for holstering and use as a secondary. I don't really recommend it given the size of this gun and how unwieldy that may be. The only real con with the gun is the inclination to not use it in extreme CQB. I have pulled back from firing if it turned into a point blank situation given the high FPS of the gun. This is simply a personal issue though.

Using .25s TSD inside a closed garage at 20-21ft, I was able to get 67 rounds out before the gun started running into low gas issues. That's 2.5 magazines per charge of green gas. The accuracy pretty much speaks for itself at this range.



http://youtu.be/iOtS2uI00IM

8
Reviews / KWA Tokarev TT-33
« on: June 22, 2012, 09:23:29 PM »
KWA Tokarev TT-33



Ordering:

I purchased this gun from ASGI for $134.95 with a coupon code for 10% off. This is on the low end of many KWA GBB pistols since many of them run between $150-$170 except for a few(ATP, USP Tactical). The gun was ordered on 6/13 and received it on 6/15 using their free shipping option. The gun came in a roughly 13inx13in box with paper padding pushing the Tokarev's box to the bottom. Both boxes came undamaged and sealed.

Most notable:

The KWA Tokarev is one of the few copies of this gun and currently the easiest to get. This gun was originally designed and created in early 1930s Soviet Russia; therefore it lacks many of the common features of European/American handguns. The first thing that MUST be noted is that this gun has no standard safety. There is, instead, a trigger style safety. In order to fire the gun, one must push the trigger at the correct angle. If you push the bottom of the trigger the gun will not fire. This is not the same as the standard trigger safeties on the old Mp7 AEPs and KWA ATPs. The other thing that must be noted is the angle of the grip is quite different than NATO style guns. I suggest finding someone with one and testing the grip out before buying one.

Opening the box:

Inside the box you will find the same layout as all other KWA GBB pistols: GBB, magazine, BBs, oil bottle, manual, and warranty card. The box is also a standard KWA design with the gray stiff Styrofoam packing to assure the gun isn't damaged while in the box. When you first open the box the most obvious this you'll notice is the lack of trademarks. Unlike most KWAs, there are few bright white trademarks and nothing beyond etched markings. The handgrips are made of a shinny plastic and the gun itself is flat gray, but still has the KWA paint glare. But, need not worry since the real one also looks like this(except the obvious airsoft glare). It's not like the Russians had much time to make them look pretty.

Specs:

These specs are taken from kwausa.com

    Overall Length = 19.5 cm [7.68"]
    Overall Height = 13 cm [5.12"]
    Inner Barrel Length = 104 mm
    Inner Barrel Diameter = 6.05 mm
    Weight = 0.75 kg [1.65 lbs]
    Caliber = 6 mm
    Magazine Capacity = 11 rounds
    Velocity = 104-107 MPS [340-350 FPS]
    Energy Output with 0.20g BB = 1.07 Joules
    Gas System = NS2
    Propellant = Gas


Just so you guys know that by gas they mean green gas. KWA does not approve of propane being substituted as green gas in their guns.


Externals/Appearance


As stated above, the gun has a slightly different finish from other KWA GBB pistols. It's more flat gray when compared to my M226. The slide is made out of metal with a integrated front sight. The front sight is just a non-marked vertical post. The rear sight appears to be placed into a notch and may be hard plastic. The rear sight is a simple standard groove design using a U indention. The sights work well together and the front pin is just big enough to fill the bottom of the U. This makes it easy to tell if your aim is off to either side. The one thing you will notice is that the hammer(in the up position) blocks the rear post. It does NOT block the sight or impede the use of the sight.









On the top of the slide, between the rear sight and ejection port, you will find some trademarks. They are etched into the metal and state "BK989 * 1941" and note the * is the a placeholder for the actual Soviet Star. I believe these are the Russian manufacturing marks and dates. From what I've seen in other reviews these will be the same on every gun. The ejection port is just that and there is nothing special to note here. The black paint is a bit flat, but this resembles the real Tokarev.




What you will find interesting are the rear slide rack grips. These notches alternate between a line and a long U. They are deep enough to rack the slide with ease but feel a bit weird. Compare these to the rear rack notches on the KWA M226 and Mk23 in how they are designed. It takes a bit to get use to.




Another interesting thing you will find is the front of the gun. The slide wraps all the way around and goes into the lower when the gun fires or slide is racket. There is no exposed spring guide. The only thing that is exposed when the slide goes back is the plastic outer barrel. It looks a bit odd a first, but functions just fine with no jamming issues.





The lower is also metal and in the same flat gray as the upper. Before I start on the sides, the grips are of a shinny plastic; don't let the appearance fool you though as they are very sturdy. The grip's high points are somewhat slick, yet this is negated by the striations going down the grips. These work well, but are not as good as standard/modern grips. On the center of both grips you will find the Soviet Star and the letters CCCP. What most people don't know is that this is Cyrillic and stands for Сою́з Сове́тских Социалисти́ческих Респу́блик. In Cyrillic the C and P and roughly equal to the S and R of English. Don't worry, I won't phonetically spell out the entire name. The USSR is the abbreviated English version and CCCP is the Cyrillic. You will also notice the sharp indention inwards on both grips at the top of them. This makes gripping the pistol easier and is a natural place the thumb and trigger finger rest. The difference between both sides lies on the left side of the gun. On the bottom back corner the grip is cut out and smoothed out. This is where you'll find a block U which is the lanyard attachment. Using the gun as a rightly this isn't noticed, but as a lefty you'll feel it on your palm. With a lanyard on lefties may not like this very much and find the gun somewhat difficult to hold(shown later).






On the left side of the gun you'll find the slide release, KWA trademarks, and magazine release. The slide release is only activated by the empty mag. It has no springs and seems to be made from the same material as the back sight. The slide release is very streamlined with the gun and stop the slide with no issues. This doesn't look like it will pose a problem of wear down in the near future. Manually locking the slide isn't difficult at all, however the slide release is a bit uncomfortable to use. As stated, it's streamlined with the gun and it doesn't stick out far. The release contact-thumb area is fairly small. So your thumb is hitting an edge of the release and can be a bit annoying. After using it for a bit your thumb can feel a bit rough from using it.





Yet, the magazine release is very easy to use. It's a simple circular push button that's easy to push. Because of the way the top of the grips are cut your thumb will automatically rest on the release. Switching mags, or accidentally release one, is very easy to do.



Just like the trademarks on the slide these are etched into the metal and not colored in; unlike most KWA GBBs.  From front to back it will be the serial number, Soviet Star, and KWA. Given how other KWAs are all serialed, it's fairly safe to say this is unique to each gun except for the star and KWA.



On the right side of the gun you will find the only white trademarks. A bright "Manufactured in Taiwan" just below the rack notches.




You're probably wondering what that thing is on the right side of it. The slide release is held in place by a clip....and yes I wrote that right. The clip goes over the first pin and latches onto the slide release pin. This keeps the slide release in place and does so very well. In order to break this gun down, I had to use a pair of players to pull the clip out of the gun. It does not come off very easily so I have little worry of losing it on the field.




The Tokarev has no safety; instead, KWA made a trigger safety. In order to fire the gun you must pull the trigger cleanly from the middle-top. If you pull it from the middle-bottom the gun will not fire. The trigger actually rotates a bit up and down due to this. It's a feature I wish the gun didn't have since I have miss pulled while using it in CQB: It's very easy to do. But, don't let that fool you into thinking the trigger sucks.




The hammer, also, has a bit of a weird trait that should be mentioned. The hammer only has 2 states and no de-cocking lever; cocked and uncocked. However, you can click the hammer back slightly(or when disarming it) to set before it is in uncocked mode. You will have small gap between the hammer and rear of the gun. I did test this and the trigger itself will fire as if the gun was cocked. Yet, the gun didn't cycle or discharge any gas. I'd watch this as a potential area for mishap.





Internals:

Now that the externals are covered it's time to move to the internals. To separate the slide from the gun you have to flip the gun to the right side. You pull the clip sideways(towards the rear): I have to use a pair of pliers since it's really tight. Be careful in doing it this way as you may scratch the gun/paint with the pliers; since, you don't have much room or bend the clip. I've bent it once, but it was easy to re-bend. Hopefully, this will break in and become easier.




Just slide the pin out. The slide will just come right off with no effort at all so be careful when you do this.



The spring guide is removed like normal. You push it towards the front of the gun and pull it out. Pay close attention to the part that attaches to the barrel assembly. It has a notch that faces the top of the gun and goes around the front of the assembly. To remove the outer barrel assembly you must push it out the front of the gun. This is done by twisting the end cap(front of the gun). This opens up the front of the gun, of which is used as the exit for the outer barrel assembly. You just push the assembly out of the gun.







The lower assembly looks like a standard GBB as does the rear of the top assembly. Nothing special to note here. Since it is still covered by warranty, I won't be tearing it down any further.







The outer barrel is plastic and non-threaded. It's solid orange paint.





Magazine:

The magazine is a 10 rounder. As you can see in the picture it is easy to tell when the magazine is full of BBs. There will be a gap that won't easily allow another BB to enter the mag. The magazine itself is made of metal and very thin. To compare this to normal GBB; I have included a picture that contains(left to right) the magazines(KWA) of an M226, Tokarev(TT-33), and Mk23.










Use:

For the test, I used a standard 6 inch target inside of a closed garage. The distance was approximately 20-21 feet from the paper target. From a fully charged magazine I was able to fire 32 rounds before the gun began to have firing problems. I was quite surprised it was able to fire that many out of such a small magazine. The gun had no jams, hicups, misfires, and the trigger didn't lock up or jam. I did miss fire it once at a game due to my finger shifting and pulling the bottom of the trigger. The recoil was decent and fairly typical of a GBB. It isn't that of the Mk23, but you can feel it and it provides enough kick to be fun. But, it does take a little bit to get use to the grip. As the comparison pictures show, the gun's grip is at a different angle and size. This takes a little time to get use to and adapt. This isn't a bad nor good thing since it's just how the gun is made.



http://youtu.be/y7abBix_mkU

9
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / IDZ kit, boots, and Gorka
« on: November 13, 2011, 02:04:33 PM »
Regained stuff awhile back...no use for it anymore. I MAY trade the IDZ stuff for a newer medium size flat screen LCD TV that is fully working. 


$100
IDZ Kit
MultiDesign Civ. IDZ Vest with several pouchs
Issued Flak Vest(no inserts)
Issued Flecktarn set(needs new pants)
Plastic PAGST(I think I glued it) with Issued Flecktarn Cover






Gorka E Sposn

$40

ATACs

$20

5.11 8'' CT side zip boots
$50





10
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / Echo 1 M4RIS/w Full Stock
« on: August 20, 2011, 09:18:18 PM »
Echo 1 M4RIS/w Full stock. Bought this on AA and was lied too. The gun has a ton of problems that I just don't have the time to fix.




Offer away. It's being sold as a parts gun. Offer me something interesting and I just might take it.

11
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / KWA 1911 Mk. 4 $100
« on: July 21, 2011, 01:37:57 PM »
Got this awhile ago, but pistols just aren't for me. Fun to shoot, but I just live too far from Vangaurd to use it. I bought it probably around a month and a half ago and comes with everything the box had. So the Box, some oil, hopup tool, gun, mag, and some extra green gas.

The only issues I had from the gun was at Vanguard. After closely observing the firing mechanism, it appears to have double feed and jammed. The gun then discharged when the mag was reinserted. I've used it twice since then, with absolutely no issues. The gun was also dropped once and scruffed it a bit, see the pictures for details. They will be up in a bit. The gun retails for $169 new, so I figure $100 would be good.









18+ ONLY and NO trades*.

Unless you have a Perkins Brailler/Typewriter.

12
Airsoft Items WANTED / 2 P90 mags
« on: July 09, 2011, 05:03:03 PM »
Looking for;

1-2 P90 mags.

13
Reviews / JG G36e
« on: March 19, 2011, 04:34:48 PM »
JG G36e Flat Top



Ordering:

I purchased this gun from ASGI on Monday the 7th and received it on Friday the 11th with normal ground shipping. Since Arizona is one state away, even normal shipping is going to be pretty fast. I bought this gun for $135 before their standard "Handling Fee", so the grand total is $137.75. There were no problems or anything to speak of.

Getting the gun/initials.

ASGI did the usually packing job and the packaging arrived with no physical damage by UPS. I opened the outer to find the typical brown cardboard box that JG clones usually come in. However, on the front it's labeled "Golden Eagle" and has "G36c" listed with a G36e picture. I opened the box to find that the gun and accessories are placed in quite a bit of black Styrofoam. Quite a bit as in the gun and accessories probably didn't move an inch. The gun itself was encase, with Styrofoam inserts on the top to keep the gun down. All of the parts were there, and the gun came with a "Golden Eagle" battery, charger, cleaning rod, and a G36c manual. The battery is a typical 8.4v 1100mah NiMAH. I don't know what the charger was, I always throw them away. There was also the typical ASGI paperwork with a chrono reading of 378.

The initial going over was a bit more than normal. The first thing I did was check all the parts to make sure they worked. All the problems/issues will be covered later. There were two big things I immediately noticed. The first being the non-standard hopup unit, and the second being this big chunk of ribboned metal I removed from the outer barrel while cleaning the inner. I thought this did damage to the IB, however upon removing the Outer barrel I discover it only has a G36c length IB. This gun does not have a full E length inner barrel like the old JG G36s. I also discovered a new part that appears to be a rear stabilizer for the barrel and IB assembly. These will be covered later.



The Gun:

For this I'll go front to back.

First up is the outerbarrel and flash hider. The flash hider is a bright orange and plastic. It appears to be held on by a hex screw, however there is this black medical piece sticking out the right side. I have no need to take off the flash hider, so I haven't tried to. But, this would prevent it from simply screwing off, unless it's just a pin. Unlike my previous JG G36, they have pinned in the iron sights and didn't screw them in.



The outerbarrel is metal with a bayonet lug. It twisted off CCW (to the left) from the IB assembly. It's painted black and has some wiggle. Given the short IB, it doesn't matter much that the outer moves a tad.  



This is a standard G36e handguard, but it's different than the old JG G36e I use to have. This one is NOT a Star Clone and normal sized.  Meaning most mini batteries will NOT work in it. The clone mini batteries work fine, however the higher end battery I have does not fit. This is due to clone batteries not having the wire cap my high end does. So, you might be a bit limited it what will fit. There is also the issue of the pin that holds the handguard in place. It's fairly loose and could be lost in a game if it. One might want to tape it down. It of course has the seems, but they are pretty well done. They can be felt and noticed, but nothing is open or standing out.

Feel wise it's solid and I had no issues with it when I used it. It's textured enough that one can grab it without slipping. Once on, it barely wiggles and isn't noticeable when playing. You'd actually have to sit there and try to wiggle it. I prefer this to the overly sized Star one the my old JG G36 had. It's easier to move and doesn't appear to have a fat front end.



However, JG helped negate most of the horrid issues with battery installation. The outer barrel is easily removable since there is only a G36c length inner(cover it later). You simple remove the Outerbarrel, take the handguard off, place battery, handguard on, outerbarrel on. This cuts the; time down drastically, self inflicted injuries, swearing, and broken parts. There will be pictures of the IB assembly later. The only pain/funny thing is by doing so; your bayonet lug will no longer be centered. It's not a big deal but it's going to look funny.


There is also a bipod that comes with this model. It's easy to use and doesn't make the gun all that front heavy. It just seems that way due to it being light. To unfold it, you simply pull it down. Then to fold it you click the button and push it up. The bipod is held in my a single pin in the front. To remove this, take a screw driver and push the back of the pin forward. Then, take some pliers and pull it the rest of the way out. The only annoying thing is they are a tad loose. So when you grab the handguard they can move a bit. After awhile it get's annoying.




Body:

The body is fairly typical of JG G36s. It's a sturdy plastic that is slightly textured. It has no trademarks other than a warning sticker. The color of the plastic is uniform throughout the entire gun. The only metal parts are the screws, pins, selectors, and ejection port. The back of the body does has the standard metal plate for the stock. The only problem I've had with this plastic is the horrid time I'm having removing the paint from it. I used this gun at Fort Adobe and can't get the paint out of the texture. I'm finding myself using my nails to remove it since washing didn't work. Overall though, it looks and feels like a normal G36.




Sights:

The rail on this gun is plastic and the same black as the rest of the gun. The notches and grooves are clean except for 1 with a cast mark. The rails are like all G36s and held on by 3 screws and 3 back plates. If it's like my last JG G36, it'll have a dovetail underneath. Both the front and rear sights are metal and held in with pins. One important thing to note is standard scopes will NOT work with the rear sight. They will hit each other to a raised scope or the remove of the rear sight is needed. The rear sight has adjustments and 2 modes, a 100-200 meter and a 300 meter.





Magazine:

Unlike previous JG G36s I, and my brother, have had or have; this one isn't the same. This appears to be an SRC clone. So the plastic look fairly brittle, extremely reflective, and the trap door already doesn't lock after one use. It just clicks, but can be easily reopened with minuet force. This could be a problem if you carry multiple and move a bit. Other than that, it came with a butterfly winding tool and the magazine works fine.



IB Assembly:

Ok, this is where things get weird. First up, the gun does not have a forward barrel stabilizer like CAs and Stars do. My old JG didn't have one either. This gun though, has what appears to be a rear stabilizer attached to the IB assembly. The barrel screws onto it and prevent the IB assembly from moving. This part is connected to the handgaurd by the same way CAs are, a rail and slot. It's a large and metal part so JG must have thought it was important enough to have there. I do not know if this decrease the size of the outerbarrel or they left it alone. I no longer have another G36e outerbarrel to compare the two. To remove the IB, it's just a matter of removing the 3 screws and sliding it out. BE VERY CAREFUL doing this. They used thick wiring and the side of the IB assembly where the wires goes doesn't completely hide them. If you don't watch the wires carefully, you will damage the rubber or the wire itself. I taped them down further to help, but still use a small screw driver to keep them down.  






First difference, beyond the above, is that there is no connector. The wires are connected by male to female metal plugs and covered by rubber. If you remove the IB too hard, they'll just release and no damage to the wiring is done. The only thing is both IB sides are black coated. The red wire has a streak of red on the black coating, the other does not.





The other thing is the hopup is NOT standard. I have never seen this type of hopup before. It appears to be a mashup of a G36 and an M4. This hopup actually goes to the GB and completely covers the nozzle unlike normal G36 hopups I will talk to performance later, but in it's normal state it was total garbage. It works just like a normal G36 dial hopup and has, what appears to be, a Madbull blue bucking. The inner barrel is also only a G36c length(why is later). Once the hopup was modded, it worked fine with no problems and was pretty accurate for a clone. It is very easy to adjust(adjusting is normal) and when I broke it down they had some clear grease coating the inside of the hopup and bucking nub.




Lower Receiver/GB:
 
Pretty much a standard JG lower. To remove it, simply take the hex pin out in the rear of the fun after all the other parts have been removed. It should just pop right out. There is nothing different about it other than the cylinder. As mentioned about, this only has a C length barrel. So, they did not put a full cylinder in it. Instead, it is a single side vented. It's as accurate as it's long barreled brother I once had. After using it, the selectors are all still painted on and the texture was good enough for it to not slip at all. The selectors both(ambidextrous) go into place with a good click, and don't wiggle or are loose.

The only weird thing is my mock slide release is dark green and sticks. Not really important/don't care about it but it's a bit odd.

The GB is probably a standard JG. I do not open GBs unless it's broken.







Stock:

Is more than likely a regular C length. My old one was a C length, and this one appears to be also. It has seem, and the only really noticeable one is on the gun side. It has a nice tiny gap that runs about 3cms to the right, and down 1cm to the metal plate. This isn't a big deal, but you will notice it. The stock also has the standard rubber buttpad all G36s do. There is no wiggle, and does not appear to be coming off at all. Also, the stock clicks into place with a good clank and does not move once locked. This being a clone, the folding part I'm not a fan of. It will fold and lock into place with some force, easier than the earlier versions, but the unfolding concerns me. It takes some force to remove it, so breaking the little notch on the stock is a concern of mine.




Performance:

I took the gun to Fort Adobe to give it a go. I chrono'd it at 320-330 with .25s but their chrono is low by about 20. So it's around 350 with .25s. ASGI gave me a paper with 375, but I pulled a huge chuck of ribboned metal from the outerbarrel while cleaning it. So I have no idea if they shot it or not.

I had a standard 3x9 scope on it to adjust the hop up and for general use. Immediately, I was having massive problems. The BBs were flying everywhere and nothing worked. The hopup dial did little/nothing to correct the path of the BBs. Often, they weren't even in my scope or flew off the the right by 50ft. The range was terrible and the accuracy was garbage. I put the gun away until I had time to look it over.

I did get the time, and noticed the massively different hopup was to blame. When I tore the hopup apart, I noticed they left some M4 parts on the top of the unit. There was a part that was entering the chamber before the bucking about a centimeter. The BBs were striking this plastic piece, then striking the bucking nub. This is obviously a huge problem. I removed the part, covered the opening with tape, and took it back out onto the field. It became incredibly accurate and had very good range for a clone. I took it home, cut the part to fit, and put it all back together. If it leaks; I've still got tape.

As for the small inner barrel. JG must have done this to aide the battery installation, and set up the GB to be a short IB gun. There is nothing wrong with this since short IB guns can have the same range and accuracy as long. The seals and hopup are more important. My best guess would be this new hopup is designed to due just that since it connects directly to the GB. Unlike normal G36 hopups, there is no bottom opening and almost no where for the air to go beyond forward(or into the mag) once fixed.

Top of Hopup


Parts/Problem part


14
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / $100 TM P90+Gun Bag, $40 BE AUG CQBR
« on: October 04, 2010, 04:49:18 PM »
KWA KP45 NS2 Black sold

Last of my guns

This is a TM P90 RD. It's probably around 3.5 years old and has worked nearly flawlessly. has the trigger locking issue, but it's an easy fix. Some minor cosmetic marks but other than that it's fine.  RD is still in perfect condition and the GB has never been opened. Everything is original from the day I got it.

It comes with the Gun, 1 TM standard, Battery, and an Echo1 Magwell conversion.






$100

I'll throw the large gun bag in for free with the P90. I just want it gone so pay some stuff off.

This last one is my first gun. It's a 4 year old BE AUG CQBR. This gun has worked FLAWLESSLY for 4 years with no problems beyond the pot metal hooks and the grip. The gun is entirely plastic(minus the GB) and will come with a scope(3x9). The GB has never been opened. I don't think they even make this gun anymore. The mag is somewhere but it's here. It does take standard AUG mags. It also has a fixed Hopup so it can only use .2s.




$40

15
Airsoft Items FOR SALE / WE HK416 GBBR-offer-
« on: May 16, 2010, 05:30:18 PM »
Less than a day after getting everything I needed, my job decided to give me more hours. So I no longer can airsoft again for awhile.

This is a WE HK416 with full trademarks+1 mag
Never used in game
maybe 50rds through to test
RA Tech NPAS installed
never used AI Propane adapter
Also has 2 flash hiders(one orange)

Other than being a typical WE, the only issue was the NPAS installing. WE used red locktite so I scuffed up aluminum bar+top a tad trying to get it apart for the NPAS.





18+, no trades at all, no shipping.

I'm open to reasonable offers, I'd like this gone by this weekend.

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