Hello,

I have a KJW glock that needs a new hammer spring. I also am looking for a CNC outer barrel, CNC slide, steel hammer components, and a CNC'd spring guide all for the KJW/TM/or WE glock 23 please. I am away from the computor often so call or text to 928-899-5944 if you have any of the parts listed and are willing to sell.

Thank you,
Garrett

Hello everyone, I am looking for just an AK body(doesn't need a stock or pistol grip) but I would like it to have the metal cover on the top, as well as the plastic hardware that sits on top of the gearbox area with the mock bolt/charging handle assembly. I am also looking for the barrel assembly. So basically what I am looking for is a plastic bodied AK-47 with no gearbox or barrel

Also a Version 3 Metal Spring Guide w/ bearings

PM or call/text to 928-899-5944

-Garrett

So the title might have caught your eye, and you either thought it sounded cool, or you said man here comes another moron trying to dream up something again hahahha

So I am building a Juggernaut suit. But it is not a regular suit, it is a fully enclosed, air cooled, armored, and spiffy looking get up. I have it all drawn up and I will be posting pictures. But While I was thinking up the suit I wanted to create a very unique and rare sort of weaponry. So I did. I have created an Arm Mounted Assault Rifle. The exterior is still in construction but the gearbox is coming together quite nicely and quickly. I am posting video's as I type and I will provide links here after while. But the concept of the Arm Mounted Assault Rifle  (AMAR) is that both hands will be free for either climbing or melee type weapons while being able to maintain a maneuverable and effective form of fire power. I started with a CYMA Version 3 gearbox. I chose a version 3 because of the motor cage and the simplicity and reliability. And I chose the AK Platform because it is narrow, and not very tall. I removed the trigger, cut off lever, selector plate and trigger contact that slides back and forth. I then soldered the contacts inside the trigger switch together and did the same with the two contacts on the outside of the trigger switch. What this does is eliminates the use and need of a trigger mechanism inside the gearbox, so once the battery is plugged in the gun takes off. To make the firing controlled I am working on a switch that is molded into a glove.  The switch is a plunger type switch, the type you find in action movies when a guy is about to blow himself up. The switch will run from the battery to the connector at the rear of the gearbox. So when the switch is pushed the gearbox will fire. Pretty simple, yet effective.

 Update 12-19 Decided to go with the outer barrel of a 1911 for this build and putting a Noveske amplifier on it.


So there is my AMAR project. Video links will be posted shortly. Let me know what you think


Here are my Links as of now they are only the video's on the gearbox fire assembly so be patient the videos on the guns itself are being posted: BTW My voice is kind of funny, I had a lot of issues with my jaw structure in the past:P If you guys wouldn't mind subscribing to my channel I would appreciate it hahaha I am not very good at this youtube stuff

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Mbxpewsv8xc

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=yPmsFoEt-MA

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=pN1JgYXkz04

Hey Guys! So I was using and Echo 1 Max Speed motor and I have had issues with these motors in the past. But anyway I was using it on my 11.1 and it was running great then all the sudden stopped completely. No clicks no nothing and when I plug in another motor to my wiring harness it works fine. So the motor is dead, however I would really like to fix it or see if the motor is simply disconnected in some way and it can be fixed or dissembled. If anyone has any experience digging into or repairing these electric motors let me know or point me to a good guide or resource. I would buy a new motor I just do not have the cash. Please let me know as soon as possible.

Thanks!

-Garrett

So I recently got an influx of CA Sportline Version 2 Gearboxes in to tech and In every one I have had to replace the Anti-reversal latch spring because it was so insanely weak that it would easily fail and almost hesitated when engaging the bevel gear. On top of that the spur and bevel gear look like they are nice steel maybe even with a little heat treatment added but the sector gear sucks! I have never seen such an aweful decision. The gear is pot metal, and very ugly, and as far as structural integrity it is very sad. A guy stripped his gear off a M100 spring on an 8.4 battery pack. The bushings are plastic but better that the CYMA Stock plastic bushings, but at the same time you can buy a CYMA something with metal bushings and a lot nicer gearset for the same price. And the cylinder is so wobbly, it is so sloppy and I am tempted to slip some glue all over the edges to make it seem like it belongs with the shell. Has anyone had an experience with the CA sportline gearboxes?

So I am building a custom gearbox and it was originally going to be configured to high speed. But seeings how I am building this gearbox to sell I was curious on what configuration of the gearbox you would buy. Would you prefer a high speed set up, around 330 bps with a rof of around 30, a standard gearbox with about 400 fps with .2's and a rof of around 18, or a DMR gearbox that puts out 450 or higher FPS with auto disabled. I really appreciate the input.

Heading says it all, I have stuff to trade. Hit me up by text of PM. Looking for mildly used, not looking to pay full price in any way

928-899-5944

Thanks,
Garrett