Hurricane full build. Great set up, did me well at many events. Have original box and manual. Comes with battery, lipo in the stock tube looking for 300 but entertaining offers. Special considerations if you purchase today. Text is easiest 480 285 59 64

M4/M16 style AEG's typically have a selector switch that is held into place by a plastic disc on the inside of the receiver that holds the switch in place, accessing it requires removing the gearbox from the lower receiver body.. This disc is mounted off center and has a "D" shaped recess for attachment to the inside of the switch. They are held together with a very small screw. Because of the design it's not likely to just fall off since the gearbox is in the way and it takes more turns of the screw then the body will allow the switch to turn, keeping the screw from loosening. Unfortunately since it fell off in play it's likely that either the disc inside busted or the threading in the selector fouled, causing the screw to no longer grip the switch... unless you forgot to install the screw after taking it apart (I'm guessing this isnt the case as you'd know how to reattach it if you took it apart). It it fairly straight forward to reattach but if any of the three pieces (switch, disc, or screw) are missing or damaged you'll likely need a new switch kit that is a few bucks or if it's a missing screw you MIGHT be able to find one with the same thread pitch and length at Ace Hardware or similar, but remember it's a very small screw that needs to stay flush with the side of that disc.

My VFC platinum edition with g&p aimpoint and vltor style stock

If it's a VFC why does it have ECHO1 markings?  :?

i always thought it was said like Sigh-mah

I was great to know you bro... You will definitely be missed.

We lost a big part of our community today, I still cant believe that this happened to such a great guy.. Still feels very surreal. My thoughts and prayers go out to all his friends and family, and every life Christian has touched with his sense of humor, advice, and knowledge. One of a kind guy, one who alot of people here looked up to, me included.. I'll miss shooting with you bro.

The biggest issue in running a lipo IMO is the trigger contacts.  If you are running anything more than a 7.4 you are going to arc/burn the contacts up in a short period of time.  This requires a MOSFET to overcome the issue.

Explain "short period of time", I have been using an 11.1V LiPo for over 2 years in my VFC and over 3 on my Classic Army based gun, both of which do not have a MOSFET, do not run Deans, and are still using their stock switches. I think MOSFETs are great precautionary measure that will definitely improve performance, especially higher end ones with active braking, but i wouldn't say it's absolutely necessary or else you'll burn it up fast.

I saw you used an unjamming tool and "oiled the hell out of it"..

if you werent careful you could have damaged the nozzle or knocked it out of place when unjamming the barrel. this could explain your description of lose of compression. open it up and make sure the nozzle is seated properly and is undamaged. also, when you oil the bucking it takes a few shots to clear out that oil if you over oiled it. this happened to me at a large event when I hastly over oiled my hop up bucking when switching barrels before I had to run to get it to chrono. it was fine after a few shots but it had to get cleared out to return you normal.. it miss and double fed and shot like crap until it was cleared out of extra oil. remember too much can be a bad thing.