Don't open the gun if you don't need to.  Guns usually seem to begin having issues once they've been fiddled with.

On the note of wanting a lower FPS, the easiest thing you can do is purchase a velocity reducer (I saw one at Gearbox about a week ago).  From what I've heard, it should fit.  I'm not very familiar with outer barrels on MP5's, though.

Why would you ever recommend a velocity reducer to someone?  They DONT work, and never have, they are also not an acceptable way to lower FPS in 99.99% of all airsoft Op's and organizations because they dont work correctly either in full auto or higher FPS in which they can actually fall out or be removed.

And I wasn't raining on your parade, just pointing out the irony of an engineer saying that an airsoft gun (especially a cloned one ) is impressive lol.  Even 1970's Nuclear tech is better than these airsoft guns

Quote from: "HavHav"

That is the sort of stuff I need to hear. Did the seals just need to be upgraded once with a better ring or what? They only have 30 round magazines, so ROF is irrelevant for the most part to me. Thats really the only downside I've seen so far, unless I'm retarded and there are midcaps out there.

All of WE's GBBR's (and most other GBBR's in general have the same issues).  They shoot far too hot stock (often over 500 on Co2), they use far too much gas which causes cool down), they break far too often (ask Hector about his AGM M4), they are fairly inaccurate.  The KJW M4 with Travis' parts seem to be about the only GBBR around that's achieved any sort of reliability.

However, even then, you are still talking about buying a $400 gun that uses $40 mags and immediately having to upgrade it just so it doesn't blow itself up.

G&P WOC's are about $600, require very little modding for reliability, and shoot about 360 w/ .25's out of the box on Propane/Green Gas.  Mags are the expensive part.

I've since spent far more on my WOC, but she'll be worth it once I get to using her.

Eventually the bolt stop area on the Bolt Carrier will wear out, so will the nozzle tip (and consequently the nozzle too), another 260$ on the RA Tech Steel Bolt + NPAS and aluminum nozzle portion should get you up and running with very little headache.

I also hear that the Viper Tech GBBr's are not horifyingly bad, and should be very reliable (considering there is video of a guy cycling the dang thing for 10 minutes using an HPA rig with only one stoppage which was cured by racking the bolt again) and the price is reasonable too.  

As for the WE Scar?  I've only ever seen three, and all three have the same issues regarding the stock breaking off, which WE supposedly fixed in the newest generations.  They seemed like decent bits of kit, but I never saw one shot at any sort of range so I can't comment on long range performance.

Quote from: "xXmusicimpactXx"

O.O 5000Mah? Daaayyym haha. Doesn't the 7.2 voltage give you a super slow ROF though?

No because it's a 120a discharge rate on the battery.

Which really means nothing because you could supply it with 10000000 amps and it wouldnt make a damn bit of difference in ROF.  So long as the battery you buy outputs enough current to satisfy the motors need you can't over current a motor.  It's only going to take what it wants, and for 90% of the setups out there, 30-35 amps is more than sufficient, more than that is wasting money on your battery.  

A 7.4v LiPo puts out about as much ROF as an 8.4v Large (at best).  My 7.4v 3000 mAh 15c (thats 45 amps continuous) has a slower ROF than my 8.4v 3500 mAh's, but the trigger response is better because the LiPo actually provides the start up current that the motor wants, where as the 8.4v does not.  However, my 9.6v 4000 mAh battery smokes both the 7.4v and the 8.4v (duhr) in ROF and trigger response.

7.4v LiPo's in the sizes needed for most small applications are slightly dangerous unless you can find one that outputs a decent amount of current you risk continually dropping the voltage below the 3v's per cell ratio which significantly reduces the life of the LiPo.  Even the 11.1v's are dangerous in small applications.  Yeah, sure, you can take that risk if you want because the LiPo's provide so well, but you really need to match the LiPo to the gun in terms of guns needs and lipo output.  At least 30-35 amps but really no more than 45-50 amps.

As to your original question, buying airsoft NiMH and NiCD's is dumb.  The RC Car world is years ahead of airsoft in battery technology, but Airsoft NiMH's are like airsoft LiPo's, a waste of money.  Elite produces some of the best cells for NiMH Chemistries.  Cheap Battery Packs carries a huge selection of suitable NiMH cell sizes made by Elite.  If you are going to buy a new battery pack, check out CBP's and buy a ELITE celled NiMH (if you chose to stay with NiMH), dont even give second glance to airsoft NiMH's they dont cut it.  Especially avoid Intellect, who's QC and cell quality has dropped a TON in recent years, their cells smaller than Sub C suffer from serious voltage droop problems while under load because they have no balls and can't output enough amps to satisfy our motor needs, Elite Cells can and do output enough amps in those same sizes and they are generally cheaper than Intellects and have far better quality control for their cells.

In my opinion the only worthwhile LiPo's are 11.1v and output 35-45 amps continuous.  7.4v's are IMO a waste of time where conventional cell technology provides safe for trigger contact voltages and currents as well as performance.  An 11.1v LiPo should be used with some form of MOSFET, although I know many people who dont.  I didnt and the one I had quickly ate through a set of trigger contacts in my G&G M14.  Why don't I use it now with the MOSFET?  Because the setup I was running would cause the Motor to heat up too quickily for my taste due to Active Braking (really passive braking) that the MOSFET was doing.  The 9.6v 4000 mAh offered a great balance of trigger response and kept heat build up to a minimum.  It's interesting technology for it's size, but they are not the end all battery out there, not by a long shot.

True I agree there he won't need that strong of a motor. But I would since I was pulling a 150 spring.

If he has the money yeah upgrading internerals is a not always a bad thing.  What your suggesting is great for those on a budget. Maybe its just me but when I buy or plan on a gun I always go overboard on the upgrades. But your G&G gears are better quality than most being more on the higher end

But in the end its his choice on what he gonna do. But what your suggesting is good.

As for me I'm looking at a tanaka m700 ACIS sniper

What I'm suggesting has nothing to do with being on a budget, even though it is a good side effect that you save money.  What I'm saying is to not replace more than is absolute necessary to gain the performance you need.  CA Gears are very solid (one of the few things of theirs I actually dont mind) and it's one of the few things that hasn't changed much in the years they've been producing guns.  Mechanically speaking, I'm going to assume that 75% of airsofters who "do their own upgrades" dont know how to correctly but know how to get it to work.  So from a mechanical standpoint, if the shimming is fine and the gears are solid, then spending extra money on aftermarket gears is fruitless and offers nothing in either reliability or durability.  If anything, changing the gears will cause more headaches as you can't just drop them in and go like you can a piston or a spring or a spring guide.

Don't get me wrong, if you wish to spend the money on new gears when they are not necessary, then by all means go for it, but when folks come to me for upgrades and they are already pulling the "I'm on a budget" card or "How can I do this without spending an arm and a leg" you learn that some parts are more than capable of doing the job without any adverse effects.  

Don't get me wrong, G&G makes great guns, but their gears are pretty soft.  I wouldn't throw them in a gearbox with anything more than an M130, maybe an SP130 spring and expect them to last a long time.  In my opinion the CA gears are probably a bit stronger than the G&G's.  I've never tested them to be completely honest.

I don't mean to belittle anyone who does their own work with my comments, but I've seen tons of work done by people who make that claim and it can be depressing to clean up after

Ok then thank you for the information. But the website doesn't have a tight bore barrel for an M14 for $30. Airsoftgi.com does.

Uhm, well, considering that the G&G/CA M14's use standard barrels, they DO have the Madbull 6.03's for ~35$ which is going to be far better quality than the AirsoftGI barrels, at least in my opinion they are.  I'm sure someone will come on here and explain how they feel that the AirsoftGI's are supperior, whatever, thats not my experience.  

Your money man, buy what you wish, I'm just making suggestions.  Often times you wont be able to get everything you want from the same retailler without making unfortunate compromises.  Definetly not worth it in my opinion.

I think I'm going to get a tight bore barrel, a G&P M140 short motor, and a madbull hop up bucking. Tell me if I should get something different or something more.

G&P M160 Motor > G&P M140 motor in both torque and RPM.  The 160 isnt terribly more expensive and will yeild better results than the 140 will.  

Not a fan of Madbull's hop up buckings but I "hear" the new ones are good.  I'm not the soul source for upgrade parts, but I've always had great luck with my Guarder Black Hop Up rubbers, and have found that G&G Green Hop UP rubbers work extremely well for 400 FPS and lower.

Quote from: "MLA PRO"

So yesterday i was skirmishing with my gun. Its a KWA M4 with CA wiring. I was using the gun for a few hours, and the last game of the night, this happens. It wasnt acting strange at all before it happened. It was just sudden. My gears made an awful noise then the gun stopped firing. (I was using a King Arms lipo). I go home and open up the gearbox and the anit-reversal latch was broken in half. The anti-reversal latch spring was also de-sprung I guess you could say. (I dont know what to call it.) So what may have caused this?

If nothing else was damaged I would suggest simply replacing the anti-reversal latch with a new one and reassembling the gearbox. I have pulled a heavily bent one out of a gearbox before, so I would think that had I continued to used the gearbox without service it would have snapped like yours.  The latch is a part that is under stress and failure would not indicate that anything else is necessarily wrong; it may just be a defective individual part.

This


I've ran stock ARL's in various guns at varrying power levels above and beyond what guys here have run (Like SP130's and SP150's, etc) and never seen one break.  I've seen one break the spur gear because the tech before me put the ARL in wrong  :roll:   The two ARL's I've seen broken where just piss poor quality (one was a JG, no surprise there) the other was a VFC (Still no surprise there).  If nothing else is broken, replace the ARL, and go to town.  I suggest cleaning out your gearbox grease wise while you are in there to double and tripple check that no metal dust got into the greases!

Won't work.

At least not without some serious modification and alot of headache.  The lower gearbox fits fine, it's the upper, and securing the stock that become issues.  A little machining would get you a 2 peice gearbox, but you are now left with the issue of attaching the stock to the gun, as in a normal AR it is attached through the rear of the gearbox, then the issue of clearance with the rear buffer retainning portion of the lower receiver when splitting it like a real AR and you'll see why ICS did it the way they did it.

Then the upper rail would need modifying.  What have you accomplished? Nothing that can't already be done using the ICS M4 as a base.  Outer barrels, G&P Delta rings, stocks, you name it, are all compatable, just not the receiver and gearbox halves.

If you want a split gearbox, you are left with few options:
1.)  Buy an ICS - most logical
2.)  Buy a PTW/CTW - Very illogical, not very good platform without some serious tweaking
3.)  Buy a Pro-win - Fat chance, most folks who have them, keep them, and for good reason.