If that's the quality of the actual video that is sent wireless to your monitor... that is phenomenal for only $500!!  I personally think there are a lot of good uses for a UAV.  I'm interested to talk to you more about this.  I'll send you a PM when I get a chance.

-BATMAN

Years ago I used to place orders with them (because of their wide selection of Japanese products).  Great customer service, and they answered all my email inquiries in a friendly manner.  I'd recommend them.

-BATMAN

In that picture it looks like Darth Maul is just about to behead Jar Jar Binks... and that makes me very happy.

-BATMAN

Okay, I thought the short answer would be enough, but I guess I'll give the long one:
-A G36 carry handle does not mount to a rail.  Just go to a G36, pull out the 3 screws that hold it on, slide it off, and look at it.  It's not dovetail, it's not picatinny.  It's actually double-notched, and nothing close to any standard rail.
-To cut the notches to the right width and depth would be a lot of work.  The end result would be a weak plastic/polyfiber frame that was just made even weaker by cutting into it, with a nearly WORTHLESS optic.  Seriously, have you ever used one?  They're terrible.  They often can't be zero'd correctly, and they're amazingly hard to look through.
-Do you want to mount the entire handle?  Do you realize the length is from about the back sight to the front sight?  I don't see anyway to make that work on an M4.  And if it did somehow work, it would just look dumb as hell.

If your red dot sits too high, and you want to keep your carry handle, seriously: get a cheek rest.

-BATMAN

I've tried different bb's.
The first half of the bag was fine. THEN the problems started occurring somewhat suddenly. I've used G&G, TSD, and Goldenball in multiple weight from multiple bags. Same results... so unless my barrel suddenly decided to be less than a 5.95... but yeah, that's one of the things I plan on checking. Just in case.

Seriously, rule out the easy stuff before you start replacing every part in your gearbox.  Bore issues or not, there could still be a problem with your barrel, or even the hop-up.  They take seconds to switch out; it's worth the time.
-BATMAN

And each of these stories is a reason to support Proposition 100, a temporary increase in Arizona’s sales tax meant to protect education, public safety and health care.

I'm skeptical.
-How temporary?  If that isn't meticulously spelled out, and has possible back doors open to keeping the tax increase permanent, I want nothing to do with it.
-How much of an increase?  Everything I buy I'm hit with a sales tax; that's a lot of money directly out of my pocket.
-Why sales tax?  Will it really accomplish enough to offset the negative impact it will have on the retail industry?
-"Meant" to protect education, public safety, and health care?  Uh, how about "ensured?"  How do I know ALL the additional funds claimed by the tax will be used for those things?
-How long is the document?  Can I read it in one sitting?  Does it directly address the issues you have listen here, or is it interlaced with provisions and hidden agendas?

Most of the time I don't trust politicians or special interest groups to write laws that are openly in the direct interest of the people it affects.  
The Fed has certainly proved that recently.

-BATMAN

We locked the barrel in a barrel clamp (so it wouldn't get scratched by the vice) and used an AR multi-wrench to take it off.  You could use an adjustable wrench to get the same result.  No heating required, just locked the wrench on to the flash hider and eased it back and forth for a few minutes to break up the glue.  Once I figured out for sure that it was clockwise, I just spun it off.  There's an o-ring at the base that also tightens the threads.  Hope that helps others who are trying to do the same!

-BATMAN