I once took a long, hard look at mine and decided there was a really good chance it's just a one-piece barrel, so I never tried to separate them.  If you find it to be otherwise, please post and let me know!

-BATMAN

Edit: BTW, the A&K barrels DO have a removable flash hider that's glued in place; I hope we're not confusing the two.

So... a section of the forums that's specifically dedicated to flaming each other?  Perfect......

-BATMAN

I'm not saying you're trying to push a personal agenda... well, not anymore than anyone else. I realize that you two both have quite a bit of experience of your own, albeit markedly different from my own. I just thought my side of the story should be heard too. Sorry to take up all your time on this proverbial dead horse.

No worries, dude; I respect your views.  Thanks for being mature about it!  
-BATMAN

Will a place like Batteries Plus be able to test it and replace bad cells or should I just get a new one?

I used to be an employee of Batteries Plus.  They can test the pack for you and tell you if it's bad, but they won't replace the individual cells.  Two reasons: 1. They don't carry those cells 2. because it's not an effective solution to the problem.  Replacing individual cells in a pack that has already been in regular use can cause a lot more problems than it solves.  You should just replace the entire pack.

Does running a low battery cause any issues?  I do not want to damage anything.

Nope.  If the gun cycles correctly, the gun's fine, and if the pack is already screwed up, using it won't screw it up any more.

there are battery chargers out there that will cycle all the cells separately and will tell you  if you have a bad cell as far as o know once a cell goes bad it is done for . and for replacing the cell if you are good at soldering go down to Franks hobby house on 32st and cactus you can buy all the parts to build your own

The cells are connected in series; it's physically impossible to cycle them separate from each other.  Battery analyzers only test the pack as a whole and search for common problems that indicate that a cell has gone bad.  To test each cell you will have to disassemble the pack.  And soldering your cells together is a very sloppy method of building a pack.  Cells should be connected by nickel tabbing spot-welded to the terminals.  You should always avoid soldering directly to cells if possible.

Intellect's cells smaller than Sub C's are paticularly natorious for what is called voltage droop.  Basically, the pack is incapable of supplying the necessary amperage and as a result the voltage drops significantly as the battery pack strains to supply the motor with it's full request of power.

Actually, what you're describing is a bad battery.    "Voltage droop" usually describes intentional loss of voltage by use of resistors.  ALL batteries have their voltage drop when a load is applied to them, but a battery that's still good maintains its voltage above its nominal point.  But you are correct in saying that Intellect cells suck hardcore.  Batteries Plus stopped carrying them because they were overpriced and consistently came back bad.

Hope that all helps.
-BATMAN

Are you talking about a 7.4V or an 11.1V?  With a 7.4 it'll do fine.  With an 11.1 you'll strip a gear, guaranteed.  Take it from a long time Marui fanboy.
-BATMAN

I would like to know what ur opinion is on the radio control grade gease and the airsoft grade grease what would u say is the difference because a tube of radio control hobby grease is way cheaper then airsoft grease..

Yea dude, there is no difference.  Companies just try to capitalize on people's ignorance, that's all.  At JungleToy I used RC car lubricants and at Gearbox we still do.  Lithium grease on the gears and silicon on the air seals, and it's been doing the trick for years.  
Be careful when shopping for gear greases that you don't see "mineral spirits" listed anywhere.  That's the same as petroleum oil.  Doesn't matter if it's 'only on the gears'; it will get spattered all over the gearbox.  Most greases you can tell if it's petrol free by just smelling it.  
Hope that helps.

-BATMAN

If you don't believe me, with all your vast knowledge, I can certainly refer you to some people who have pushed little plastic balls passed the limits of what most people dream of, Clarence Lai the Co founder of Redwolf Airsoft and Airsoft Surgeon, Or Mike Of Righthook Fabrication, or Ben Satori of Satori industries, Troy Kim of 2roy. I doubt any of these people will tell you to lube your hopup rubber on the inside, nor the barrel.
If you plan to have a rebuttle to this post, please atleast provide me with some data or theory behind your statements. Shellackin' lube inside your hopup and barrel just won't cut it.

Nope, I don't need to meet someone to know what they have done and how they did it. But since you asked, I have spoken to him on a handful of occasions on these very things and observed him speaking of the such...
I really could care what YOU think of all people, because you can't seem to get off your high horse for two seconds to see anything outside your blinders.

You want theory?  You want data?  How about this: I took barrels with no lubrication, then applied lubrication, and I saw an increase in performance, time and time and time again.

It's obvious what's going on here: You don't have the experience yourself, so you throw around big names, thinking that people will look up to you and assume you know what you're talking about.  If anyone here is lifting himself up on a high horse right now, dude, it's not Vince, it's you.  

I really do try very, very hard to be nice to people on these forums and not criticize, but come on man, grow up.

-BATMAN

Very welcome.