Furst Gun Selected, upgrade advice?

[Harley]

That's petroleum based and DO NOT use it.  Go to your hobby shop and buy Kyosho shock oil.  It's around $7 for a bottle and will last you a long time.

[andyhinds]

I just went downstairs and got some silicone based grease (looks like vasceline)

Also my friend told me that there were two types of ICS M4 uppers, an old one and a new one.  I thought they both came apart like a regular AR-15 strips down (like the steps you mentioned before).  Are there really two types of ICS M4's, or is my friend talking out of his a*s?

[yobroham]

Well harcore newbie...I ran into the same trouble as you did. I have an ICS m4 and when I got OFCOURSE....wanted more power!  :twisted:  So I popped open my split gear box muahaha...replaced the spring guide, spring, and installed some metal bushings. BUT it stuck when back together.

Now this was months ago.....its true that some batteries just wont push it. BUT i found that the anti-reverse lever was my problem. When installing gears the sector gear's tappet nub shoulb be at a 1:30 position. Well i didnt pay attention to this after installing my bushings. BUT moving it changed how the sector gear acts with the ARL. It was causing the lockup when the ARL kicked in probably near the last tooth on the sector/piston at nearly full spring compression, causing to much torque for the Motor/battery to over come on the next pull of the trigger. So I opened up the lower gearbox...adjusted the bevel gear a few teeth and put the sector gear in the right position. (gear position is crucial) VUALA!

OH and wanna solve those CQB problems....get an ICS with one stock upper for CQB and one upgraded upper for outside.....or just have your trusty KJW g23 with ya.

Now I would say keep that gun stock for a while....test it out. Dont make mistakes about getting into that gearbox in a hurry and screwing something up, like me  Id say for now....your best bet is invest in a tight bore barrel, and maybe a better hop up bucking....those will help with accuracy and a bit with FPS. IF you MUST upgrade some internals....just look at maybe some metal bushings and upgraded spring guide.

OH and by the way....im new to this site....live in arizona (Junior at NAU but am from phx)....I WANT TO GET INVOLVED!!!!

[yobroham]

andyhinds....yes there was a v.1 but ICS fixed some problems that they had with it and now they have the v.2, which the ICS's will come with now.

The upgrade kit you got will be just fine as a begginner upgrade for the m4. BUT that is the stock cylinder set and piston/piston head that come with it. Id reccomend upgrading those later though.

FOR grease....I used white lithium grease for lubing up the upper and lower gearboxes....21st century airsoft reccomends it. and so do i!

OH and forget about that last post....i was in one forum and than it just posted it in here.

[andyhinds]

The reason why I bought the M4 was to upgrade, I've got a stock MP5A2 that I'm keeping stock, so if something breaks... I've got a spare.

Thanks for the advice guys, I might be posting on here later once I start the upgrade!

[Harley]

You'll burn out the piston O-ring using white lithum grease.  It's not meant for that type of application and of course 21st Century Airsoft recommends it.  They get more business fixing your busted guns that way.  Pure silicone Kyosho shock oil is the best way to go.  But it's your gun and your call.

But what do I know... I've only worked on a few hundred AEG's.

[azsarge]

Since this is your only AEG, you're going to want to use it in outdoor skirmishes and indoor CQB. It would be best to keep it at its current FPS, that way you will be able to use it for CQB (no one wants to be shot with a 400 FPS gun from 10 feet away).

BS.  We rarely go in the house.  The suggestion to keep it where it's at for awhile is legit however.  Get used to it's shortcomings (compared to a real M16), then upgrade later.

You have to understand Lightning-Man, to some of these dudes "CQB" is shooting into a ruined building from 20 feet outside and yelling "CLEAR CLEAR, ONE UP, TWO UP, GO GO GO!"  Discovery channel and Blackhawk Down special features will do that to 'em. :lol:

I played with a stock TM M4 (276 fps with .20g) for the first 7-8 months with AA.  Needless to say, I appreciated the nealry 100% increase in fps after upgrading.

Well I CQB quite a bit with my friend... so, regardless of what you play or how often you do it... it's not BS... nobody wants to get a face full at 400 FPS.

I meant that AA as a group doesn't do indoor games that often.  And like Mike said, we limit it to semiautomatic.  Theres a decreased chance of someone getting a "facefull at 400 fps" like you said.  

Ha, my first AA game was a CQB game.  Right through the door (I was no.2), I took one in the face!

[yobroham]

Do you used the shock oil on the gear lubing as well?

ALL i know is that what was in the gearbox when i got it new.

And can you explain to me why it keeps putting that post into this discussion?.....everytime i put it in this other post....it pastes it in here....

[yobroham]

Is this Kyosho shock oil...just like regular 100% silicone Shock Oil....What weight do you reccomend...I have just never heard of it before

[yellowmonkey]

You'll burn out the piston O-ring using white lithum grease.  It's not meant for that type of application and of course 21st Century Airsoft recommends it.  They get more business fixing your busted guns that way.  Pure silicone Kyosho shock oil is the best way to go.  But it's your gun and your call.

But what do I know... I've only worked on a few hundred AEG's.

At what point does white-lithium based grease start to erode the 0-rings? I have been using something similar to white-lithium grease (I think).

I have been using "lithium hydroxy" (black colored) grease I got from Auto-Zone a while back (just standard grease you would use for bearings in tires or something). I haven't seen any wear on my 0-ring yet... it's been about 5-6 months. It's a little thick... so for places like the piston I mix in a little silicon oil. It seems to do well as far as lubricating the gears goes, very well infact. I haven't noticed any deterioration of any plastics either (boy was I lucky there  8-[  ).

It was just the first grease I ran across in my quest to fix my guns.

[busta_cap]

I have found a really great silicon oil for lubing both pistons and GBB's...its the Team associated 10,000wt oil meant for differentials on RC cars..it comes in either a shock oil bottle or in very small tube(trust me this tube will go a LONG way). Funny thing is, G&G is trying to pass off these little tubes as a special formula lube lately and all it is is some RC car diff lube. Go look for some at the local hobby shop.

[andyhinds]

Is a 9.6V 1100maH battery going to be enough to drive a M120 spring? (for my ICS M4 upgrade.)

[busta_cap]

Probably for a little while, you might want to get a 1700 or 2000 if you can, you will definately see the longer lasting effects as well as ROF.

[azsarge]

Is a 9.6V 1100maH battery going to be enough to drive a M120 spring? (for my ICS M4 upgrade.)

Yes.  That is, if you're not heavy on the trigger.

I use 9.6v 1700 mAh packs for my m120 and super torque-up helical gears.  One pack will last 2-3 weekends on one charge.  I stay on semi, and take aimed shots.

[andyhinds]

I've got a pair of them, so I should be good for our typical AA skirmishes.  I typically fire <2000 in a day.